Search results

It's definitely doable diy, however coolant draining is required as some of the small coolant pipes and coolant channels on side of engine block need removed. I can post up some screenshots of the procedure with diagrams and torque values from the service manual if you want to see what's...

I wonder if it can still be removed without the exhaust having to come off. Can imagine having trouble with exhaust joint bolts on some cars

Is that how you found it or is that your repair?

To be honest I took mine off my non type s thinking it would probably need attention due to the mileage and found a little oil in it and cleaned it out and didn't notice any improvement in performance or economy. Unless you know it defo is semi blocked might be time spent better on something else

Sorry my bad it's under 8th gen then faults dunno, I couldn't see it for looking at it. Are you any further on with it?

Btw I've just noticed this thread isn't visible on the list under technical board then 8th gen accord. Only way I can find it is if I look in my alerts. The threads are listed in date order under regular threads with this being 16th June and it's not there. So you might not get much help with...

I would double check tyre pressures. It senses it probably due to car leaning towards tyre that is low affecting the radar aim. If the rear of the car sits low the radar would point up and vise versa. But maybe the radar is dirty behind the bumper might be worth having a look and clean and also...

Might be as simple as the cancel button is stuck on cancelling setting as soon as you try and set it. I can't remember ifc the display shows 'ACC OFF' when pressing cancel, I'll try and remember to check for you next time I'm in car. The fact that are no errors showing up on HDS leads me to...

This may help. It's the same system as mine with lkas and adaptive cruise control. Maybe the cancel bottom on steering wheel is faulty and it's switching it off or maybe it's one of the other things it talks about

Probably worth a shot at that price

I've had pressure differing similar to what yours were and it didn't upset the cruise control strange. Only thing I can think of if it was definitely the pressures was the rear corner at 28 was making the front of the car point up slightly at an angle upsetting the radar. Hopefully it'll not...

Just out of interest how low did the pressures drop? as I've had low pressure on one or more tyres and never had any check lights or acc disabling itself. I too have acc and lkas and dread the day something goes wrong with it as it would be pricey to put right, probably end up just doing without...

Hopefully be something as simple as faulty brake pedal switch?

It's not difficult at all to remove from car give a basic clean up and paint with the paint I mentioned. Only costs around 10 pounds and it may last a good while worth a try for the price

They are there for sure. That's the first thing I tried when i first noticed the caliper had movement. I bent them slightly to provide more pressure as they seemed too easy when putting back on as if the had maybe bent open slightly on removal. They pull nice and tight now when putting them...

Yep the inner pads have the 3 fingered spring clips that grab inside of piston. But the channels where the ears slide don't use spring clips on my car I've checked with honda parts diagrams, so the outside pads are rattling

The stuff I'm planning on using is VHT only the can says to harden it needs to reach 160 degrees. If it doesn't harden I'm guessing it will just start peeling in no time

I'm just annoyed as I was really thorough when doing the job as I'd never dealt with rebuilding calipers before and everything went as planned. I'm glad the binding problem is now gone but can't stand the rattle. It's sound like somethings broke and will make it hard to hear any further wear...

Just been out with car and after a good run the manifold heat shield highest temp I recorded with my infra red thermometer was around 85 degrees with the turbo 65 - 70 degrees. So it's going to be difficult to get the paint to harden like the can says. If the heat shield fits in my oven then...

Yep I'm going to degrease then wire brush then clean again. I'll take the heat shield out and spray a few coats on. The turbo I'll just spray the can into a container and brush it on with turbo in the car. If I can't get to all parts of the turbo I'll probably leave it incase only painting what...