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There are many different types of pastes on the market for high temperature application. Mine was some sort of paste for exhaust parts, wood stoves etc... Mine was cracked on the upper side on the right edge. You have to examine it carefully cause the crack is thin and has some slight...

These pastes are used between joints. I have tried it on a crack on the manifold just out of curiosity, but the material does not tolerate the expansion of the metal and the crack will form again even on the smeared layer. An aftermarket manifold is probably the best option.

It was probably a bad injector, spraying irregular fuel, because I had a long cranking issue as well. The injectors themselves are not a problem. The problem is the timing chain that wears premature and needs replacing, but the injectors won't come off easy and sometimes get broken. Then you...

I'm posting the final conclusion: bad scoring on the wall of the cylinder #4. The cylinder started missing when idling. I won't even bother to examine the piston and rings. I'm going to scrap the whole engine and the car.

I have new maf and cleaned egr. Trolleyjack, I will definitely start with the intake manifold to see what is in there. But if it is clean I will proceed to strip the engine in order to lift it. I'm planning to have a look at the cyllinders. Even if it is a faulty injector, it has definitely...

I have thought about this, but the car is burning oil, there is blowby and oil in the intake. The problem is obvious. I have done a leak back test and for a 1 min idling got 1 cyl: 7.5 ml, 2nd: 5 ml, 3rd: 5ml, 4th: 11ml. These figures look fine. I have changed the pressure relief valve too. The...

Just un update. Did a turbo swap with no difference. The car is more and more difficult to start and is now idling on 3 cyllinders hot and cold. Increasing the rpm seems to start the ill cyllinder. Oil consumption is 500ml per 600 miles. So, my 2.2 i-ctdi engine is done at nearly 220k miles. I'm...

We are all hobby mechanics. I am not afraid of doing any job too. I have oil in the intake, not pooling, but enough to jam the map sensor in 10k miles and fool it. So, I'm pretty sure it is not valves. Valve guide seals are not unknown of causing blowby, but this is rear. After I have changed...

Same situation here, mate. Oil consumption remains after the turbo swap. 500 ml per 1000 miles roughly. Mine burns the oil through blow by. The intake is covered in oil. So it is probably piston rings. Do you have oil in your intake? I will be switching to 5w40 to see if the blowby could be reduced.

Hi, mate, I do not know the answer of your question, but I want to add something regarding the change of the rear sensors. If you are changing for the first time you'll probably end up drilling them out. This is not a problem and don't be afraid of doing it, because it is the only option. The...

I have done a turbo swap with an one from the scraper yard. I had inspected it for shaft play and it seemed a good candidate. Mine did not have any shaft play too when I got it out, so it was probably not the culprit. The funny part is that after I have installed the turbo I have seen that the...

So it turns out it was not the ps pump making the noise? Yes, the chains are very bad design on this engine and yes they may become noisy, but so much noise does not seem alright for me. How did you confirm that it is the chain? Did you run the car without the belt and replicate the noise?

Yes, I'm planning on doing one, but the question was if somebody has ever had their cap opened while the engine is running and how much blow-by did they see. I know that every engine is different and I don't know if this is normal for the i-ctdi.

Yes, I'm planning on doing one, but the question was if somebody has ever had their cap opened while the engine is running and how much blow-by did they see. I know that every engine is different and I don't know if this is normal for the i-ctdi.

Turbo seals are not a DIY job as you need balancing which is done on a special machine. You need to get the turbo reconditioned by a shop or buy new turbo, but first you have to make sure if it is really the turbo. I have the same problem, mate. Check if you have any oil in the intake manifold...

Are you sure it is not low on oil? What do you mean by "the oil is shot"? The high pressure hoses sometimes develope leaks and you can start loosing oil. The noise in this case is more like roaring increasing with the turning of the steering wheel.

You will also need loctite 5920 copper liquid gasket for the chain cover and the sump. The o-ring on the oil filler tube, but you can probably get away using the old one.

No, it does not have any particular smell like exhaust or raw diesel. I'm ***uming it is some kind of oil mist. It is more when I first open the cap and then it clears. I can not keep it open for a long time, because I get sprayed with oil. I'm concerned with the amount of air escaping and you...

The coolant is fine. I have recently changed a leaky coolant radiator and drained all of the coolant. The colour and smell was perfectly fine. No bubbling too. Can somebody confirm that it is not normal for this engine to pump so much air out of the filler cap. I don't want to spend money on a...

Recently I'm getting a fair amount of oil in my intake, a cloud of white smoke only when starting and consumption of half a liter per 1500 miles. I was sure that the oil was coming from the turbo, but I can't find any shaft play on it. I'm thinking of buying new turbo, but I want to make sure...