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I don't believe it was a PDF manual - it came on a CD from ebay years ago, probably the HTML version you're talking about.

Hi folks, I've misplaced my copy of the service manual somewhere in the last couple of house moves, and am half way through an engine transplant.. Does anyone have a copy they could bung in my general direction? Thanks.

Not so much max, as any useful level of compression. It's doubtful from a quick reset that I'll get it spot on, plus with the stretched chain anyway it's never going to be A1, so I'm just trying to make it plausible.

I'm not concerned about doing further damage as such, but with the timing on the intake cam being so far off, and ***uming the tightness I'm feeling at TDC *is* the piston meeting the intake valves, it's doubtful I'll get any sensible leak down readings since the intake valves are partially...

Ta on fuse location, saves me digging for a manual. Crank pulley is at TDC for #1 (well just past it, because I suspect the intake valves are slightly hitting). ***uming the intake sprocket had pulled the chain over the exhaust sprocket, I'm struggling to think of a scenario where that would...

Thanks; I'll probably need to wait until tomorrow for an extra pair of hands to take the tension off the chain and fettle the intake cam back to something approaching normality. Then I'll run a leakdown test, and finally attempt a compression test. Do you know if the fuel pump fuse is in the...

That second video is much better, thanks; tentatively I'd have to agree it has been making that noise for a while on cold starts, or a similar noise - I'd just put it down to oil leaking back down to the sump and the pump taking a moment to re-pressurise the oil passageways to something that...

Quick google suggests the stock K24 has 25 degrees of advance, and those marks are around 90 degrees out, so I think we can rule out the mechanism being locked in the wrong place?

Sounds like a reasonable theory Channel Hopper. Freddofrog: Don't recall that noise, but then it was 5am, the bonnet was down and I wasn't listening for an imminent failure to chooch. Re compression test, I'll probably do that and a leak down, but need to fix the timing first, otherwise it's...

Going by your pictures, this thing has jumped many teeth on the intake cam. Exhaust cam is a little harder to see, but flywheel is at TDC (approx, just slightly past) and exhaust cam looks to be about right - hole at the top, line on the right. Intake cam, line is almost at the top, and...

That mess was just blow by from the injector.

Cure is a very strong word. Stop it for the 30 seconds I was looking at it, yes. Doubt it'll last for too long.

I am of course hoping that the pool of 'oil' on the floor was in fact coming past this injector. Not sure whether the question that then poses is a better one: is it throwing oil out of that cylinder, on top of the sticky combustion residue.

Do you mean housing, or the plastic lid that holds the filter in? Done the latter, not the former. I think the oil round here is mostly just sloppy filling by a previous owner/garage, looking at it more closely. I've sprayed some of it off with brake cleaner, see if it comes back any time soon...

Plugs are fine, not smashed, always a good start. Stuck a camera down each port, no big bits of debris kicking around in there. Doesn't mean valves haven't hit, but I can see the pistons are slightly pocketed (or is that big dents from valves - hope not). Rocker cover off, can't see any...

Will continue 2.4 woes on the other thread.. Spoke too soon on the diesel. Clatter is still away,but after a 1200 mile round trip of the UK at the weekend, it's developed a tendency to leave a puddle of oil underneath (I mitigated this mid trip by restricting revs to ~ 2100 or less for the...

Well given my accord died a death a few days ago, I think this one was feeling kind.

Well, as it turned out, it isn't the oil pump chain, yet, at least. I dug out my mechanics stethoscope and everywhere on the engine and ancillaries sounded fine, except the alternator. Figured it must be some kind of odd bearing failure, so phoned up a local alternator shop and headed over...

***uming the tensioner is somewhere vaguely sane (ie. roughly half way between the crank and the cams) then there shouldn't be sump oil anywhere near that level. Sump level should be below the level of all the moving bits on the crank. I might pop the lid on it tomorrow and have a quick nose...

Not sure if this engine is pre or post facelift; the original was replaced when I bought the car off a mate after oil starvation killed the original one. I'm pondering how difficult it is to remove the engine from the car; makes lining up the covers etc easier.