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The automatic transmission is controled by the engine computer, there isn't a seperate ecu dedicated for the auto transmission per se. The problem is likely to be faulty shift solenoids. There's threads in the US forums that explains how to replace them.

You are corret, the wiring harness for the navigation model is different. So it somehow has to be reverted back to non navigation

Upgarage sells them as well... Mind you just because it's listed on a Japanese site doesnt mean it's actually made in Japan. Pretty sure Largus coils are made in Taiwan by BC (Bor-Chann) Coilovers.

Thanks I asked because I got the rear a spec lip without the plug and is trying to find one, but I can only find one for the oem rear bumper (mine is a 2004 mk7 in australia) Oz never got the 2.0 so we never had any bumper plugs

Hi guys, Figured I ask this question in the UK Forum since the exhaust plug is actually used here. Anyone who has a 2.0 mk7 with single exit exhaust has put a factory bumper lip kit on their car together with the single exhaust bumper plug? By bumper plug I mean this thing...

I personally think it's the firewall flex thats causing the "mushy pedal" Pity they dont make something like this for our cars: http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product/products/brake_master_cylinder_stopper.html

I've upgraded pads, rotors (into slotted), brake lines and new fluid Didn't make much difference, it's just how it's designed I guess

It's black and looks like the other black plastics in the engine bay. besides, i got the version that didnt have "Comptech" stamping, so it just looks like any old piece of plastic.

Not sure about the UK, but down here in the colonies, over the years we had noticed the following as common faults to the 7th gen: Alternator Power steering pump Door lock actuators Accelerator pedal position sensor Throttle position sensor Primary O2 sensor CV joints Engine mounts Then...

Give this a read: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-articles/intake-shootout-04-08-acura-tsx.html I've been using a Comptech icebox for 3 years now. Can't fault it, and it looks stock enough to pass police/road authority/insurers here in oz.

K20z3 don't have exhaust VTEC, so your k20a cams won't work. Means you need to either do a complete k20a2 engine swap, not sure how that works since EP3 had electrc steering. Or you need to do a complete cylinder head swap with custom engine management. you probably need the cylinder head from...

...... DO this test.... while the car at idle, turn on rear demist and pull the power window leaver (all of them) to roll the window up (regardless whether window is up or not) if idle drops or car cuts out. it's alternator, check alternator voltage

It's not a proper comparison run, it's just 2 runs hurriedly thrown together in the middle of a dyno day., the car didn't even came down from the roller. None the less the bump is clearly there, a 18 horse power bump where the VTEC is engaged. I need to check the TPS voltages, throttle body...

here it is, 2 cold runs Think my TPS is a bit off (read: broken) but none the less you can see the nice bump where the OEM "dip" used to be. the guy who did the dyno suggested it might not have even been a proper WOT... FML.

You are not going to get much more out of the top end without cam work and a whole raft of other mods The OEM cam profile for the k24a3's (apart from those post facelift TSX cams on the K24a2) are VERY mild. Both duration and lift are as mild as they come. 25 degree VTC does not allow much...

Someone mentioned my name. All the dyno charts here once you pull back some of the chart "smoothing", is pretty much identical to what a Hondata reflash chart look like. I don't see people complaining about the hondata "reflash", which essentially does the same thing.

SO anyone has any update on this one? I'm actually interested in getting this done, given that my PS pump is on it's way out anyhow and steering feedback isnt anything to write to home about, I might as well remove the pumping losses and the perspect of having to deal with P/S fluid. The key...

Before the reflash I was doing about 350 mile to the 60Ltr tank now I'm doing about 373 ish, which is a slight improvement.

Reviving this Topic. With help from littlebo above, i am now: 1. Running a reflashed AUDM 2003 accord :-) couldnt be happier

Another day, another update, well, here it is: This is the chip board for an automatic post-facelift TSX ECU (auto) 37820-RBB-A21 bad news: it's a completely different chipset... good news: that also means the pin-out is largely the same.