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Motor won't go over 3000rpm, VTEC broken?

LMB

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Accord 6 1.8
Hi fellows, I'd like your suggestions on this:

I was driving down a mountain, braking with the engine which was at about 4000-5000 RPM, when I felt a jerk and the "check engine" light went off. I was on a narrow and dangerous mountain road (the Alps), so I had to go on.

After about 10 minutes the car would no longer go over 3000 RPM. When trying to go over, the engine jerks (goes on and off) very quickly. Under 3000 RPM the power is there as normal, at idle the engine is much slower, but keeps running.

My bet is that it's something with VTEC, but any better hints? Timing belt skipped? (they tell me the car makes extra noise, I can't hear it though - the ****ler awaits replacement)

I'd like to know more or less how much it will cost to repair, and whether I have to go to Honda service, or I could possibly attempt to do it myself. Thanks in advance.

Edit: the timing belt was changed very recently before I bought the car, there's about 15'000km on that belt
 
I bet you are out of oil. Have a look
 
As Marcus has said dude. Low oil causes the engine to go into 'safe' mode where it won't rev to stop more damage being done.

If the belt has skipped you can check yourself. Make sure both cam Pullies arrows are pointing in the same direction. But check oil first.

When the cam belt was changed did they fit a new auto tensioner? These can fail, but very rarely.

Is the EML light still on? If so disconnect the battery for 10 mins and reconnect. If the light stays on you need to find the code, if it's off then it cant be anything too serious.

Let us know how you get on dude.
 
Thanks a lot!

Oil was actually the first thing I checked, but the engine was warm, so no conclusion. Was thinking the oil control would go off, but somebody had told be that control only goes off when the failure is really serious.

If it is oil, it was changed few thousands km ago. What would cause such consumption? Is it normal to lose so much after some 9-12 tkm? Sorry if this is a very naive question, my first car was a carburetor oil-thirsty old *****, so in it I always carried a bottle of oil to top-up. I hoped I didn't have to do it in this Honda.

Again, thanks a lot, it's a relief! (I hope so)
 
The VTEC engines use quite a bit of oil due to the way they work, I had the oil & filter changed on mine when I bought it, I've covered 3k miles and I've had to top it up twice so far.
 
As Pedro has just pointed out, yours has a manual tensioner, I thought they all came with autos so sorry for that.

As it's a manual one did the garage tighten it up enough? But check the oil first. With regard to usage, all I can say is some use it, some don't. My old 2.0 6th used to use a fair bit of oil, my type r doesn't use any, but i know other people who's car used a scary amount.
 
Mine uses about 1L every 6K but I like to drive my car fruitfully lol
 
any cell with self diagnostic? it should be a good start.
You can check Ignition timing instead of cam pulley checking. its pretty the same, but a lot easier (if you have ignition timing check tool somewhere in neighborhood).
 
Hi again! Thanks for all the hints.

Seems it was the oil, I added some and the engine no longer chokes at 3000rpm. The "check engine" light is still on, will try to reset later.
 
Disconnect the battery for 10 mins. Job done. Lol.

Glad it was nothing serious. Just remember to check the oil frequently and you shouldn't have any problems.
 
Aha, so thats a rep point for me :lol:

I knew it was oil!

Thats what this forums about, people here to save you, your car and your wallet!
 
Low oil WON'T trigger your CEL!

Low oil WILL stop vtec from engaging as it needs a certain oil PRESSURE to activate, but that won't give you a CEL either. Nor will it put you in 3000rpm limit limp mode.

Loss of vtec is perhaps the first warning that you are low on oil. However you will still rev past vtec engagement point, you just won't get vtec and you will have a cold rev limit of ~7000rpm rather than your full ~8500rpm

A second warning that you are even lower might be a flicker from the oil warning light often on cornering. But remember that light isn't low oil level, it's low oil pressure. The next thing you know about it will be a solid oil warning light and very likely a dead engine.

All of which will happen without throwing a CEL.

If you've thrown a CEL and it won't go over 3000rpm it's gone in to limp mode.

You need to find out from the ECU what has caused the CEL. I don't know about the 6th G Accord as to how you do that. On the CRX there's an led on the ECU that flashes when you turn the ignition key which gives you a number that relates to a fault. There must be something similar on the Accord.

Your low oil level was coincidental in my opinion.
 
Mango, no disrespect is meant, but your opinion goes against the ones of people with much higher post count. That could mean nothing, but nevertheless, do you have the experience to support your suggestion? I simply would like to avoid spending big money on service if the car runs as before after I added oil. Thanks in advance.
 
I can understand mangos opinion, and what he's saying and if you can then get the code read. A garage will charge £40, or you could do the paperclip test. There's a guide on here to show how to do it.

I have had this issue with my old 2.0 6th, and it was the oil that caused it. Low oil, low oil pressure ergo safe mode kicks in. But if you've reset the ecu and the light has gone off this could have cured it.

But if you can, get the code read or do the paperclip test tonput your mind at ease.
 
No disrespect/offence taken. I am new here but 15 years of messing around with CRXs backs up my post. :)
Including having had a lucky escape with experiencing low oil preventing vtec without throwing a CEL, and without killing my engine.

However, my experience is with the CRX and B series engines, if as Simon is suggesting above, there is a low oil pressure sensor on the 6th G Accord that would put the car in limp mode before the low oil pressure warning light comes on then that may indeed have been the cause of your CEL and I will graciously stand corrected!

Either way, the fact remains you have thrown a CEL and the car has the ability to to tell you what caused it. You should find out what it has to say. :)
 
I agree with you dude, the op should have the code read.

I think the 6th does have a sensor which stops hard driving when low on oil. But could be wrong. It does happen lol. I'm not a Honda technician by any stretch of the imagination. :)
 
Thanks again, guys. I don't know if I can read the code anymore, as after I added oil, the "check engine" is gone.
 
You should still be able to check the code. The fault should be stored in the ecu. It's not always stored, but usually when it's come on and the characteristics of the car change it'll be stored.

Glad it's all sorted for you though dude. And remember, check your oil level weekly. :)
 
The knock sensor is a pretty good shout actually. Especially considering you had no oil in the car.
 
I think Mango had the right idea when he said to get the code read off the ECU. Otherwise you'll really not have a clue!

In most petrol-engined cars (and I ***ume this Honda), the knock sensor detects combustion chamber 'knocking' characteristic of pre-detonation (and therefore instructs the ECU to retard the timing, etc), rather than detecting any knocking from the engine caused by low oil.
 
When we're on the topic of reading ECU, is the OBDII behind the ashtray?
 
It's in the passenger footwell. Just under where the dash starts.
 
I have a accord and at 3000rpm it would jerk or cut out till went under 3000... I've had it at a garage and its not the oil it's the vtec.. Check the black rubber seal inside the vtec housing as alit of times its this.. A new vtec can be expensive
 
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