rear brakes

[Asho808]

Trying to do my rear brake pads, quite awkward to get off. Only doing as local garage not back til 2nd January. arrrggghhh.

Problem is i can't get the caliper pressure pad back in, is it screwed in or by pressure. I have a 2000 Wreg 2.0.

Please help, car off road partly in my garage at moment?

Cheers

Asho.

 

[AndyB1976]

You need to turn them in clockwise.

There is a tool for the job you can get from Halfords for about £33 or Amazon for £13ish. You could try and improvise by trying to insert a tool into the cutouts to twist it but you might destroy the caliper piston/boot so only attempt at your own risk.

I think I had some pics on here of aligning the cutouts for the new brake pads...I'll have a look.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_214227_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1314-Caliper-Piston-Re-wind/dp/B002V72SHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1356622104&sr=8-1

 

[AndyB1976]

The Piston position when fully retracted. The 'cutout' should be 9/3o'clock position (when on the car, obviously caliper lying on side in pic so 12/6o'clock)

The 'key' on the brake pad

The 'key' and 'cutout' in position with new pad in place

 

[Asho808]

Thanks Andy for pictures.

That has helped, i now understand how to put them back together properly as i had to crow bar the caliper and brake pads off as they were seized and making a horrbile noise when driving.

I did attempt to turn it clockwise with a pair of pliers but no joy.

Could i oil/grease the caliper somehow to help it turn or could the caliper be seized in its out position??

Many Thanks

Asho.

 

[AndyB1976]

I have also used a wee prybar to get the caliper out the way and pads off too!!

You can put a bit of 'red' rubber grease (must be rubber safe grease else it will perish the boot over the long term) between the piston and boot, thats really to stop the piston tearing the boot apart when turning it. It won't free-up a seized piston as such. Keep an eye on the boot anyway when you are turning the piston because its likely it will begin to twist up.

From memory, the first couple of turns are the hardest. Even using the correct tool I noticed it needed quite a twist to get it going, maybe its where the tool earns its kudos most - at the start.

I'm not sure pliers could get it going, maybe you might have a chance if it was pipe pliers/ channel locks due to the jaws and leverage but haven't done so myself, yet you might have more chance to borrow something like those. I think I read the other day on here someone had success using the prongs of a ball joint seperator to fit in the cutouts...presumably a bit like this one http://www.screwfix.com/p/ball-joint-separator/19907?kpid=19907?cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKq2tbKLu7QCFcjKtAodXj8ANA.