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Still having idle problems

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Pukka

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Location
Surrey
Car
Honda Accord 1.8
Hello again!

I posted a few weeks back (http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/9525-low-idle-when-warm/) about how my accord was reacting poorly upon returning to idle and almost stalling. I managed to fix this problem by cleaning the IACV and the throttle body (which where very dirty!). However after a few weeks the problem returned.

It was suggested to clean out the EGR and the plate which i undertook today and surprisingly it wasnt actully too bad compared to others i have seen. Upon doing this however has not fixed the problem and the idling problem still remains. Im going to try 'burping' the cooling system tomorrow to see if theres any trapped air in the system but if this doesnt solve the problem im not too sure where to go next!

Apprently the problem came back after filling up with fuel, and even if it isnt a problem i think im going to change it anyway, but would a dirty fuel filter cause this to happen?

Any furthur advice would be greatly appriciated!
 
Pukka said:
Hello again!

I posted a few weeks back (http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/9525-low-idle-when-warm/) about how my accord was reacting poorly upon returning to idle and almost stalling. I managed to fix this problem by cleaning the IACV and the throttle body (which where very dirty!). However after a few weeks the problem returned.

It was suggested to clean out the EGR and the plate which i undertook today and surprisingly it wasnt actully too bad compared to others i have seen. Upon doing this however has not fixed the problem and the idling problem still remains. Im going to try 'burping' the cooling system tomorrow to see if theres any trapped air in the system but if this doesnt solve the problem im not too sure where to go next!

Apprently the problem came back after filling up with fuel, and even if it isnt a problem i think im going to change it anyway, but would a dirty fuel filter cause this to happen?

Any furthur advice would be greatly appriciated!
Click to expand...

The 1.8 engine(F18B2) bleeds "automagically", guess that is not the problem...
About the fuel filter, I am not sure, but I also guess not. I guess its more easy to give problems in higher RPMs. Still, it will not harm if you change it. It's quite cheap if you don't go to Honda.

With the engine ON, disconnect the IACV plug and see what happens. If there is no change, you might have a faulty IACV.
Also check plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor.
 
skhell said:
The 1.8 engine(F18B2) bleeds "automagically", guess that is not the problem...
About the fuel filter, I am not sure, but I also guess not. I guess its more easy to give problems in higher RPMs. Still, it will not harm if you change it. It's quite cheap if you don't go to Honda.

With the engine ON, disconnect the IACV plug and see what happens. If there is no change, you might have a faulty IACV.
Also check plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor.
Click to expand...

I checked the IACV the first time the problem arised, unplugging it it made the idle very erratic and really bog down upon touching the throttle, which im guessing is good?
Spark plugs are good (slight grey tan coloured tip) and also producing nice blue sparks and i also gave the dis cap a clean up which wasnt too bad
 
Pukka said:
I checked the IACV the first time the problem arised, unplugging it it made the idle very erratic and really bog down upon touching the throttle, which im guessing is good?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is good, I guess :blush:

Check if your ground connections are all OK, and if they are not too rusty. That might help.
 
Is the check engine light coming on? My 6th Gen was doing the same, stalling so often I had to hold the accelerator in order to idle in the end. The check engine light would intermittently come on too. If it is on, check the error code - mine was the lambda sensor on the exhaust manifold, I understand it's fairly common for these to fail on high mileage F series engines. Hope this helps mate
 
Josh2109 said:
Is the check engine light coming on? My 6th Gen was doing the same, stalling so often I had to hold the accelerator in order to idle in the end. The check engine light would intermittently come on too. If it is on, check the error code - mine was the lambda sensor on the exhaust manifold, I understand it's fairly common for these to fail on high mileage F series engines. Hope this helps mate
Click to expand...

Ive got no MIL lamp coming on but ive heard about this problem so if i can find my voltmeter ill have a poke around and see if there working properly. Do you know if yours was the pre or post cat sensor that was replaced or was it both?
 
It was the pre cat sensor mounted on the manifold I replaced, the other didn't seem to be giving me any trouble. Checking it with a voltmeter is a good call, I never did this as the CEL was on with my car but hopefully it should help you figure out what's going on!
 
I'd reccomend fuel filter change and then maybe an O2 sensor change. If you have 2 sesnsors i'd recommend changing both at the same time though.

Also, dizzy cap maybe?
 
Checked the whole ignition system again, gave the distributer a little clean (wasnt too bad though), checked ht leads resisitance and checked the condition of the sparks plugs conditon and spark, which are again all fine.

Sprayed the entire inlet manifold and the surrounding hoses with brake cleaner and didnt show any leaking

I did however notice that one of the battery earth points (the one to the engine block) was fairly corroded so gave it a good clean up but didnt check if it had made a difference or check the oxygen sensors as it started bucketing it down!

I was also thinking as i did not do it after cleaning the Egr, would it be a sensible idea to relearn the idle again?

Thanks!
 
vc's? Valve Clearance?

If so, according to the service history we got with it, it was done 20k ago and the fact i cant hear any tapping or unusual noises i think they should be fine. Although the fact they are locknut valves (i thought they were shim's) it wouldnt be that hard to check and change them if they are out, so ill get round to checking them sooner than later
 
Not hearing tapping noises from the rocker cover, doesn't mean that they are OK.

If they are too tight(small gap), you will not ear anything weird. You only ear them if they are too "loose"(excessive gap).
It's not quite hard to check them and adjust them, just need a small 10mm wrench, a screw driver, a feeler gauge and patience, lots of patience.

BTW, is your car running on LPG?
 
skhell said:
Not hearing tapping noises from the rocker cover, doesn't mean that they are OK.

If they are too tight(small gap), you will not ear anything weird. You only ear them if they are too "loose"(excessive gap).
It's not quite hard to check them and adjust them, just need a small 10mm wrench, a screw driver, a feeler gauge and patience, lots of patience.

BTW, is your car running on LPG?
Click to expand...

Nope its running on good o'l petrol

Also the problem occurs whether its stone cold or fully warm so unsure to if that would be caused by having tight clearances (unless they are really out). However i might just adjust them anyway to rule the possibility of it causing a problem!
 
When doing Valve Clearances, you must make sure the engine is stone cold. Ideally having left it overnight to cool properly.

After doing anything to the engine it is always a good idea to reselt the ECU. Give that a try. It can'[t do any harm.
 
Does increasing load on the engine, aircon, power steering or electrical items cause any issues with the rpm or stall?
 
luvmyaccord said:
After doing anything to the engine it is always a good idea to reselt the ECU. Give that a try. It can'[t do any harm.
Click to expand...

The proper procedure to learn the idle is to reset the ECU, then start the engine, and let it run at 3000rpm until the fan turns on and off twice. Just put something in the throttle mechanism to hold the rpms at about 3000rpm, so you can see when the fans turn on and off.
 
Ive been gettin the vc's done every 10k miles, my cars idle was all over the place, used to rev by itself etc but after gettin vc's done it sorted everything.
 
Increasing the load by having everything on just causes the idle to increase as normal but still react the same (hesiate and sometimes stall as well) but then returns to the elevated idle speed.


I guess ill give the the valve clearances a go as it will be a worthwhile task and they need doing anyway. Also havent done a compression test yet although may to resort to it if nothing else sorts it
 
skhell said:
BTW, is your car running on LPG?
Click to expand...

Quick question, why did you ask this?

I only ask because mine runs on LPG and suffers from occasional stalling so if there is something specific to the LPG system that I could check it would be worth a go

Cheers
 
AcesHigh said:
Quick question, why did you ask this?

I only ask because mine runs on LPG and suffers from occasional stalling so if there is something specific to the LPG system that I could check it would be worth a go

Cheers
Click to expand...

I also run on LPG and had problems with idle, but it was related to the LPG tuning. The thing is, that cars ruining on LPG, sometimes have idle problems when running on LPG, which is usually due to poor tuning.

Also, Hondas have to be careful when they run on LPG, as they can suffer from valve seat recession, making mandatory the use of a with Flashlube kit. The valves have to be monitored(adjusted) within regular time intervals to ***ure that they are not being damaged. If they are being damaged, then you should review the falshlube kit, and the entry
point of the "lubricant" in the intake manifold.

If you only have problems while running on LPG, check the system with your installer. Also, make sure the valve clearance is ok.

If you also have the problem while running on petrol, do the following. Reset the ECU, and drive only on petrol during a couple of miles. If the problem is gone, then its related to the LPG, which is "contaminating" the petrol ECU due to a bad tuning... If not, then try everything mentioned in this post...
 
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