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Strange noises from 2008 iCTDI

buzz lightyear

buzz lightyear

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Location
Edinburgh
Car
2.2 iCTDi Tourer
Hi all,

not been on the site for a while so forgive me for jumping back in straight away with a question...

Been very happily driving a 57 plate 2008 Tourer (7th Gen) iCTDI EX for the last year. Recently I've been noticing some strange noises coming from (I think) the back wheels, very intermittent & so far haven't really noticed any trends as to when they happen. It started round about the time we had snow, but suspect that's incidental. The car was in for a service at the start of February so I'm hoping that if there was anything hanging off underneath Honda would have noticed. It usually starts off as a bit of a 'clunk' followed by a 'metal on metal' grinding or squealing, usually at low speed or when I put the car into reverse. It doesn't last long, 1 mile tops, then clears itself. Then last night driving home I got a noise i can only describe as someone trying to make spooky noises on a Theremin (kinda " wooooooo....woooooooo' - sorry - very hard to describe random noises in words!) - again, only lasted about a mile then cleared. I'm guessing the 2 different noises probably aren't related, and the car's going back in next week for a once over, but I wanted to check with the experts first if there's anything specific I should be asking them to check (sticky callipers, wheel bearings etc?)

Appreciate any advice you guys can offer

Rob
 
As CJ said check the brakes the clunking noise sounds like the hand brake sticking which is the same calliper as main brakes.The woo ooo noise could be turbo whine when the engine is cold.
 
See if you can stand your hand being on the brake drum/wheel, after a short drive. Sounds like brakes binding. Temprature of aforsaid will confirm or deny.
 
Tourer has shoes in disk hub for handbrake, operated directly from handbrake cable, not caliper.
Possible shoes are sticking or binding slightly when pulling away. My nearside handbrake cable broke last year, causing the shoes on that side not to retract occasionally. That caused a clunking noise. As you're getting the problem when pulling away and then it disappears, i'd check the shoes first.
If shoes don't retract properly, hub has tendency to grab shoes in reverse.
 
Rob said:
Tourer has shoes in disk hub for handbrake, operated directly from handbrake cable, not caliper.
Possible shoes are sticking or binding slightly when pulling away. My nearside handbrake cable broke last year, causing the shoes on that side not to retract occasionally. That caused a clunking noise. As you're getting the problem when pulling away and then it disappears, i'd check the shoes first.
If shoes don't retract properly, hub has tendency to grab shoes in reverse.
Click to expand...
Iv learned something there Rob i thought it was the same set up as the saloon.It makes sense then about the handbrake sticking what i said.I new the tourer has different pads but didn't relies about the separate shoes.
 
thanks guys, really useful info & defo sounds like the handbrake is worth a look at. Good to get a bit clued up before I take it back in next week - I'll let you know the outcome. If it is the shoes sticking or binding is this likely to be covered by manufacturer's warranty? (warranty runs until 26th April so obviously wanna make the most of it if I can)

pretty confident it's not the front pads / discs as Honda fitted new pads at its service last month, they also told me the front discs were in A1 nick.

really appreciate the input - you guys
smiley-faces-84.gif
 
I would have thought it should be covered by warranty, as long as it is some kind of mechanical failure. I.e not just worn out shoes or pads. To be honest the shoes don't really do any work, they just hold the car from rolling when stationery.
Mine were knackered because they kept sticking, because of the cable.
 
brett said:
Iv learned something there Rob i thought it was the same set up as the saloon.It makes sense then about the handbrake sticking what i said.I new the tourer has different pads but didn't relies about the separate shoes.
Click to expand...

To be honest Brett I hate the setup with shoes. I think it over complicates things. But Honda must have done it for a reason with the tourer, probably the additional weight.
 
Disc brakes for the rear (handbrake) are a bit of a pain as they have to operate in the event of power failure; therefore no servo ***ist...
 
Update: took it in on Monday, rear pads down to 2mm on N/S, 6mm on O/S, plus handbrake sitting very high.

Didn't manage to replicate the clunking / grinding noise when out for a road test with the service manager, but did get the 'Theremin' like noise which he reckoned was the rear pads rubbing.

Recommended replacing rear pads, which they did (for 95 quid) and they also stripped the brakes down & reset the cables etc, seems to be running OK now (although rear discs are still very hot when I park up, so I'll keep an aye on the pad wear over the next coupla months)

thanks again for your input, really appreciate it B)
 
If they are "hot" they are deffo not right, had to replace my nearside rear caliper just last week due to sticking, all efforts at cleaning the cylinder and pins, failed. Also the I replaced the brake line to that caliper, it now runs cold almost. Apparently the brake line breaks up on the inside allowing crud into the fluid and thence behind the cylinder, therefore the cylinder is unable to retract fully. You will find that the inside pad is wearing quicker than the outside pad. Mine were toast when removed. I would check daily not monthly!!
 
Could still be the rear shoes, they only need to bind a tiny amount and they will get hot. Did the garage check them also?
 
Rob said:
Could still be the rear shoes, they only need to bind a tiny amount and they will get hot. Did the garage check them also?
Click to expand...


Easily checked, remove wheel, swing the caliper up remove pads, then rotate wheel if it binds then adjust the handbrake through hole that has a rubber bung in it on the drum, screw driver slot, clockwise to expand, anti clock to release. When drum is spinning free replace caliper operate the foot brake and then spin the wheel if it's binding then consider changing caliper and line.
 
yet another update...

drums still hot after a short run, touchable, but hot (Rob - garage ***ured me they stripped everything down & checked it, but now I'm not convinced)

discs positively thermo-nuclear. I used to be a chef & also play guitar so my fingers are fairly heat resistant, but you can almost hear the sizzle if you touch the discs.

get it back in for a once over before the warranty runs out?
 
buzz said:
yet another update...

drums still hot after a short run, touchable, but hot (Rob - garage ***ured me they stripped everything down & checked it, but now I'm not convinced)

discs positively thermo-nuclear. I used to be a chef & also play guitar so my fingers are fairly heat resistant, but you can almost hear the sizzle if you touch the discs.

get it back in for a once over before the warranty runs out?
Click to expand...

Hiya,
Something to add;
My rear brakes were getting hot recently too. When I got next to the dirt (warranty expired!) and fitted new pads, I realised that the clearance between the pads and the caliper guides, both upper and lower had diminished. This meant that the brake pads did not move in the guides freely, thereby maintaining pressure on the disks. Improve your clearances by cleaning out the crud from between the caliper casting and stainless guides, and also from the surface of the stainless guides and the pads will free up nicely. I cheated with this, but that's not for here!
As Rob has mentioned previously, the handbrake shoes do little work and even after 50k they had no more wear than the brand new ones I'd bought.

On previous cars you could tell from the handling when the brakes were binding, but not so much with this accord tourer.


Cheers
 
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