Hi everyone. I am in need of some advice with my powered tailgate on my 54 plate accord tourer. It is probably the best feature of the car and I knew it wouldn't be long before it failed. About a week ago the tailgate stopped working. I found out about the reset which I performed and now I can get the tailgate to lower and open again with the keyfob and the sensors but when it closes the powerlock does not close the tailgate and locks it. This is where I get the beeping and the warning light comes back on therefore locking out the use of the remote boot. There is power to the lock on closure when I have tested with a multitester so I bought another lock from the wreckers. I swapped locks and it still does the same thing. I am getting fed up with it now and refuse to take it to a dealer. I like to do things myself this way I don't get ripped off and if anything goes wrong I only have myself to blame. I've had the car for about 14 months now and it's had leaky injector seals, faulty alternator, new battery, two new driveshafts, new control arm, nearly all new glow plugs, gearbox notchy in 3rd, needs a new master cylinder and clutch is just on it's way out so not having much luck really with it.
Tourer tailgate power lock not working
- Thread starter Stu123
- Start date
Jon_G
No Longer Active
A bit of a bleak first post (!), but welcome to TypeAccord Stuart. Most i-CTDi clutches give the impression that they're on their way out, but often keep going for years. And the notchy gearbox can sometimes be put right by an oil change, which is a very easy DIY.
There's been a lot of threads on the forum regarding tailgate problems, which can easily be found by putting 'tailgate' into the search box and ensuring that the 'forum' search range is selected. In particular, a thread at the bottom of the first page of search results ('2003 Tourer tailgate...') might be useful?
Please do ask again if you don't find what you need... there will almost certainly be someone who can help.
There's been a lot of threads on the forum regarding tailgate problems, which can easily be found by putting 'tailgate' into the search box and ensuring that the 'forum' search range is selected. In particular, a thread at the bottom of the first page of search results ('2003 Tourer tailgate...') might be useful?
Please do ask again if you don't find what you need... there will almost certainly be someone who can help.
Hi Sorry to be a downer but I'm really fed up with this car. Basically the modern cars don't seem to handle the technology that goes into them. (bring back my old mark one prelude). I've been searching for answers for the past week since it broke wasting valuable daylight repairing time on the computer. The answer was the wires near the hinge of the tailgate. I have already looked at the wires but had to take more roof trim off to spot the split wire. I soldered an extra piece to it and now it works perfectly. This was simple fix and cost nothing and to think of the owners that are being charged silly money for this kind of repair or being told that they need new motors. Owners just need to have a go themselves. It's satisfying and free. On the issue with the clutch the engine has started to rev a little faster than the speed under load and it sometimes goes into limp home mode if pushed. So I was ***uming it was the clutch. I was going to have a go myself but am worried that I won't be able to tell if it needs a flywheel cause I am not changing it if it's not broke. Thanks again for your help.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Glad the tailgate is sorted and thanks for updating us. Even when the clutch has got to the stage of slipping it can still recover! The pressure plate has a self-adjusting mechanism that can be sticky and slow to respond... it is not unusual for this to suddenly correct itself (mine did a few years ago and it's been fine ever since). If you do change the clutch yourself (and it is a big job... see F6HAD's thread on when he had one changed at a dealer) you can ***ess the movement in the DMF mechanism to see how worn the internals are - I believe there should be between 6 to 36mm of movement with moderate force applied. LUK make the clutch ***embly and DMF, so may be cheaper to buy from another LUK stockist rather than Honda, but do check with Holdcroft Honda first, as they do give TypeAccord members extremely good discounts (PM a mod to get the current code you need for this).
The clutch slipping wouldn't cause an EML/limp home mode, you need to read the stored codes to find out what's causing this. OBD2 readers are quite cheap, the cheapest ones are simply BlueTooth adaptors that work in conjunction with your smart phone... the ELM327 is widely available on eBay, and if you have an Android smart device then the Torque app is very good. If you have an Apple, then I believe you'll need the wi-fi version.
The clutch slipping wouldn't cause an EML/limp home mode, you need to read the stored codes to find out what's causing this. OBD2 readers are quite cheap, the cheapest ones are simply BlueTooth adaptors that work in conjunction with your smart phone... the ELM327 is widely available on eBay, and if you have an Android smart device then the Torque app is very good. If you have an Apple, then I believe you'll need the wi-fi version.
Hi
I have just read F6HAD'S post. Oh My God what a job. I may have to book a month off never mind a week. I don't think it would be sensible for me to have a go. I have a obdII scanner but can't remember what code came up. I'll check again and do a bit of research. Thanks again for your advice.
I have just read F6HAD'S post. Oh My God what a job. I may have to book a month off never mind a week. I don't think it would be sensible for me to have a go. I have a obdII scanner but can't remember what code came up. I'll check again and do a bit of research. Thanks again for your advice.
Hi
the code that came up is p1065 . Fuel pressure lower than expected. So instead of having one fault that being the slipping clutch I have two problems. Either fuel filter / fuel pump and a slipping clutch. Unless it goes away. £35 plus vat for original filter or £9 plus vat for blueprint one from Andrew page. I know what you are all going to say......
the code that came up is p1065 . Fuel pressure lower than expected. So instead of having one fault that being the slipping clutch I have two problems. Either fuel filter / fuel pump and a slipping clutch. Unless it goes away. £35 plus vat for original filter or £9 plus vat for blueprint one from Andrew page. I know what you are all going to say......
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Yeah, I'm going to be predictably boring and failsafe... only fit the original part, the Bosch filter with the part number ending in 442. HH will probably give TA members a decent discount and free delivery, or you could try a Bosch Service Centre. Someone did post a link recently to another online supplier that was also much cheaper than the price you quote.
Obviously some aftermarket filters will be OK and, if desperate, I might just consider using a decent make like Mann. But so many i-CTDis have had problems with aftermarket filters I really wouldn't recommend it. It's an annoying job and I wouldn't want to do it more often than absolutely necessary!
The DTCs usually ***ociated with restricted a fuel filter are P1065 and/or P0087.
Obviously some aftermarket filters will be OK and, if desperate, I might just consider using a decent make like Mann. But so many i-CTDis have had problems with aftermarket filters I really wouldn't recommend it. It's an annoying job and I wouldn't want to do it more often than absolutely necessary!
The DTCs usually ***ociated with restricted a fuel filter are P1065 and/or P0087.