Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Urgent please - Removing handbrake cable from calliper

A

AcesHigh

Members
Messages
294
Reaction score
0
Location
North Wales
Car
Accord Type V
Long story short, I'm trying to change brake hose, disc & pads on nearside rear and the calliper is seized so I can't wind it back. Thus I can't get calliper over new pads and disc... Not good! :-(

I'm trying to get the handbrake cable off the calliper bracket so I can get the calliper on the bench to give it some good news.

I have managed to unclip the cable end (end of cable by part 13 here - www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_large_image_C50.php?block_01=17S4A11&block_02=B__2600&block_03=6974) by compressing the spring, and removed part 13 itself, but I can't shift the cable from the bracket (first metal bracket on part 7/8 here - http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_large_image_C50.php?block_01=17S4A11&block_02=B__1910&block_03=6974).

Any help greatly appreciated!
 
My worry there is that the spring is under considerable tension, the bolt turns a little bit to compress the spring.

If I give it some beans and the bolt gives fully, I don't know if I'll be able to get it back together again.

I'm damn sure it should release from the bracket similar to how I got the brake hose off the brake pipe - pop the clip and the hose & end pulls out of the bracket hole. But no joy.
 
Had a very similar problem (i think). Just to clarify, are you saying the cable is stuck inside the cable abutment?

It needs a good power twist after a blast of penetrating oil or something similar. Grab the highlighted part this side of the abutment and if you can on the other side (out of view) too. I had them nipped with both sets of vice grips either side of the abutment then gave the cable an almighty twist :ph34r: whilst on locked onto those metal ring/parts. So don't grip the cable outer itself but the metal 'rings' either side of the abutment.

I had needlenose grips on one side as there wasn't much to grip.

IMG_8545copy2.jpg


Also, one of these one handed clamps (which I use for pushing the front pistons back) also can compress that handbrake spring and helps you get the cable hooked back on a bit easier.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Quick-Grip-Irwin-Xtreme-Pressure-Handed/dp/B000X2CU7G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1339267305&sr=8-7
212PyJRPoDL.jpg
 
Hi Andy, yeah, I found your thread from last year and thought I was home free because it is exactly the same problem, then I realised CJ's answer was gone and could have cried!

Do the two parts that twist actually disconnect. I.e., twist one side clockwise and the other anti-clockwise? Or is it just a matter of twisting both the same direction 90 degrees or so and pulling the entire cable (so the bit with the rubber boot and the metal hoop that hooks to the calliper) through the hole in the metal bracket?

Sorry for the inane questions etc, but I've been driving myself crazy trying to figure this out for the last 3 hours! The job was going great at first!

I've called it a day for now because it was getting hard to see (working under a car port), but I've laced the area with wd40 so will have a go again in the morning.
 
Yeah..

Firstly I can't rem if there is a spring clip on the other side of the cable, out of view on the abutment. If so you need to grab it pliers and pull it out or lever it out with a screwdriver.

The cable does not detach in anyway, neither is it screwed or fixed to the abutment - apart from grime/dirt :lol:

Therefore, grab either side and rotate in the same direction, so if you have two set of grips on - move them in the same direction which can be either up or down (clockwise or anti-clockwise) its just to break it free from the dirt.
 
One more thing in preparation, how do I remove the piston from the calliper?

When I did the fronts last year I just put an air hose on the fluid hole and built up the pressure. Is it the same for the rears or is there a different procedure due to the twisting mechanism?

Cheers once again
 
I was also at for about 4hours, CJ's answer was about the spring clip which I had out already :( I was trying everything to free it, hammer/screwdriver but didnt want to wreck the cable itself in the process. I wasn't sure how it was attached, threaded, clipped or other - after so long and no other incidents online lol, I gave it full beans with the vice grips and celtic temper and it broke free, :D
 
AcesHigh said:
One more thing in preparation, how do I remove the piston from the calliper?

When I did the fronts last year I just put an air hose on the fluid hole and built up the pressure. Is it the same for the rears or is there a different procedure due to the twisting mechanism?

Cheers once again
Click to expand...

The way I removed it was to take the caliper ***embly and hold it in such a way that the brake lever arm (where the cable attaches) faces downward onto something hard. Then using both hands holding the caliper press it down so the lever arm pivots and closes. Then let it up and repeat the process. You will see after each closure of the lever arm, the piston incrementally creeps outward - effectively as it would to take up the slack of a worn pads/discs. I think at the very end you can just twist it off or it fell out itself.

*edit* You don't need to go full guns with this incase you bend anything so just ease it down and let the return spring ease it back up.... there is no doubt more elegant ways to pop the piston out but this worked for me ;)
 
Right, first off many thanks for your help with this. Seriously appreciated.

In my attempts to get the handbrake cable off I had actually depressed that lever multiple times and had the piston near enough out. I just didn't notice because I was concentrating on the cable!

Anyway, I have come to the conclusion after 2 full days on this that I can comfortably do pads and discs but I am leaving hoses well alone.

I struggled to get the nsr hose off the brake pipe (by the flare nut) and then after the hose was replaced it leaked at both ends, one was me not tightening the flare nut enough, the other was the new banjo bolt and copper washers wouldn't seal properly so ended up reusing the originals.

On the osr hose, I just couldn't budge the hose where it joins the pipe, and sheared the bolt where it attaches to the bracket.

After all that I have decided to leave the rest of the hoses til the car is next in the garage and get them to replace them. At least they have the tools to replace the flare nut of it breaks etc.

Once again thanks for your help.

To anyone else reading this - be very careful when replacing original parts that are 10+ years old. Rust & grime is almost as strong as a weld!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top