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Upgrading the Accord iCDTi ICE. Many Questions (& hopefully Answers too!)

I probably won't get a Nav model like I have mentioned previously, as my new Head Unit will be an up to date Nav Unit (as well as DAB DVD etc).

The only way I would consider a Nav model is if I could send a video feed to it permanently. I have seen elsewhere a Reverse camera fed to the Navi display when reverse is selected. Would it be possible to remove the DVD Rom drive and just use the screen as a display? If it was possible to have this permanently displaying a video feed from my new Head Unit video out, the Nav screen it could be a second DVD/DAB display, and would also carry the reverse camera video that would be switched from my Head Unit.

Maybe I am being too ambitious and probably better just stick to just an EX without Nav lol
 
The nav screen is also a touch screen for the audio (not relevant to you if you're bypassing all that kit) and the climate control settings, so bear this mind when deciding how you want to re-purpose it.
 
removing the amp won't interrupt other controls but removing the dvd rom on nav will I'm sure. The nav screen will not turn on as it's a looped harness.
 
I think if you want to add an external source to the standard screen that plugs in to the back of the DVD drive too
 
Be aware that quite a bit of heat seems to be generated in the lower centre console area. I don't know if this is from the DVD drive, the amp or something else but thought I would mention it.
 
so the plan is non nav, install double din your own speakers, sub amp'd up. Seems alot more straight forward.
 
Lovely.
 
Cheers guys, I'm so excited tbh. I have already been on eBay ordering a Brodit mount for my phone and a
replacement fascia for my Double DIn Head Unit to fit into the lower dash.



I am toying with the idea of getting the dash panel and ashtray etc carbon dipped, or getting one of those
touch up auto repair people to match the fascia in silver to the Honda.

I'm also now looking at a reverse camera and have bumped a thread to see if anyone knows the best fitting one out there.
 
I pick up the car this weekend, final planning & measuring up next week for the boot install,
then first step will probably be cracking on with the Sound Deadening. I'm thinking of running
a second battery, so might route some Power/RCA cables at the same time Once that is done,
I will building the mounts from MDF for the boot install.

I'm awaiting a Facia from the USA to fit in the area below the Climate Controls to accept the
new Double Din Head Unit. I'm probably going with a pioneer or kenwood unit.
95-7862.jpg



Other things I will plan out as to wether to run just front components or maybe run some new coaxials
in the rear doors behind the factory grill as well. I've decided to ditch the 6x9's I was going to fit, to the
rear shelf, to allow the bass to port into the cabin easier. More updates to follow.....

Reverse Camera now ordered. Come on postman hurry up!!
 
a quick update on my project:
looking thru my options today regarding the boot install and various aspects of the entire system, I have decided to go for removing the rear 6x9's entirely and using them as makeshift bass ports whilst leaving the standard grills in place. i will now be replacing the rear door speakers with some nice JBL coaxials I picked up pretty cheaply, which should keep the back seat passengers happy.

SystemChartUpdatedHonda514.jpg
 
Time for another update. Frustrations this week, months of planning & waiting all come to nothing when the British Weather doesn't play ball!! I am currently surrounded by boxes of audio equipment & cables, connectors, sound deadening (lots of), trim removal tools, soldering irons, heat guns, crimpers, speakers, amplifiers, & a brand new top of the range Pioneer 7" Screen Navigation Head Unit.

Hopefully I can make a big start on Sunday with the sound deadening including doors, roof, boot lining and bootlid, rear bulkhead & shelf etc, more time spent on Monday installing the cables & reverse camera, and finish early Tuesday next week with the Head Unit. Fingers crossed.....

I have a local paint shop painting & lacquering the replacement facia in as near a colour we could find, it won't perfectly match with the pattern, but won't look too far off. I had considered Carbon dipping as an option, to also do the door light switch panels, drinks holder and gearshift surround so everything matched, however the company in Maidstone I supplied the pictures to for a quote didn't respond to either of the emails I sent, and am now out of time.

It has been sanded flat as the surface was rough textured in preparation for painting.
MetraFaciaOriginal.jpg


Hopefully this time next week everything will be in fitted & working.....
 
In desperate need of help, upon test fitment the the Facia i ordered from the US is about 5mm too small on each side. I couldn't find any Double DIN facia for the car in the UK and am now back to square one. Help help help help!!


Where can I get a Double Din Facia to fit? I need it ASAP or will have to butcher the existing one to get something I can actually use...
 
Looking good mate.
 
Nice thread. You car will sound fantastic once it's completed. I wish I had gone to the extent you have with you sound proofing in my previous cars. I really wish I had the time to put all my old gear in 8th gen. I've got top of the range phoenix gold Ti Elite speakers (rrp £800) and phoenix gold amps begging to be used again. May be one day I'll get round to using them.

Are you going to make any speaker pods for the doors? I wondered how they're going to cope with 150w rms.
 
The 300/4 amp supplies a clean 75wrms x 4 and believe me that is loud enough. The speakers are going to be mounted on MDF rings once the Silent Coat has been applied, along with a de-coupling CCF layer behind each speaker to reduce the effect of the sound waves. I will keep the door cards as OE, so it will be a stealthy install & not visually attracting much attention., until I turn it up that is!!! :p

The road I live on is narrow & I have no off street parking, luckily I have a mate who is even more heavily into his ICE, only lives 10 mins away, who has a nice sized garden with offstreet parking for a few cars & a high fence to keep out prying eyes. The only problem is his availability as he works shifts for the AA & is a busy man. My install is limited to progress as & when he is available on rest days etc.

The plan is to sound deaden the car as effectively as possible (within reason). Obviously good quality sound deadening is expensive, and some people go much much further than I am planning to, or can afford too. Also this stuff weighs a heck of a lot, as do the other parts of the build, 25mm & 18mm MDF constructed Subwoofer Box, heavy amplifiers & a subwoofer that weighs approx 45lbs on it's own!!

I am also going to be running two batteries (096) 12v AGM type that I have picked up for an amazing price. "The AGM battery is manufactured using AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) technology and is specifically designed for today's luxury vehicles with the latest stop start system. It has 5 times the capacity of a conventional acid battery and provides increase cycle durability and service life for stop start and high specification/current drain vehicles. They are maintenance free and 100% leak proof, making them totally safe to mount in the boot."

These will be fed by 0AWG wiring from the front battery to the one in the boot, from there 0awg cable to 0awg fusebox, then again 0awg to the amplifiers them selves, with a 0awg-4awg solid metal cable reducer so the voltage loss will be absolutely minimal. Also the engine bay will hace "The Big Three" in 0awg cable, so I will get every single bit off juice possible when needed from the car Alternator & two battery set up. There will be a return Earth Cable in 0awg to the engine bay as well, some say this is overkill, but it should ensure as minimal interference or grounding issues as possible.

On my Lexus there was ample trunking space down the sills inside the car to run 0awg cable, but upon inspection there simply isn't enough room to run 2 of these big cables in this space. I have spoken to a couple of owners from ther Talk Audio forum (both with Accord Tourers) and they ran the cable to the boot out the passenger wing and thru some 25mm dia plastic trunking conduit to the rear of the car then up into the boot. I will be doing this as well.

After all that talking I am sure you need a break so here are some pretty pictures :D

New AGM Batteries
UnipartSamsonAGM096GBA66096.jpg


Battery Terminals Type 1
NewBatteryTerminals.jpg

Battery Terminals Type 2
KnuKonceptzTriple0GaugePositiveBatteryTerminal.jpg

JL Audio 300/4 Amplifier
JLAudio300-42.jpg


Front component speakers JL Audio C2-650
JLAuidoC2-65065-inch165mm2-WayComponentSpeakerSystem.jpg


Coaxials for the rear doors Pioneer TS-G1723i - 6.5" 16.5cm 3-Way
PioneerTS-G1723iSpeakers.jpg


AudioControl Epicenter Bass Controller/Processor
EpicenterWhitejpeg.jpg


JL Audio 1000/1 Amplifier
JLAudio1000-12.jpg


Subwoofer JL Audio 12W7-3
JLAudio12W7-37-1.jpg


If anyone knows of a Double DIN facia to suit the 2006 Accord please let me know as it is really holding me up now & I am desperate for a solution
 
So the install started on Sunday, I've been using a combination of 4mm Silent Coat, 2mm Silent Coat,and some 9mm thick CCF sheets to deaden panels and cut down on unwanted noise.... a lot of smaller gap sin the rear of the roof were layered up, and once everything was level, then a full coat or two was applied as the sunroof is quite well reinforced with cross members etc.

Front seats out first
2-3.jpg

1-3.jpg


then rears etc
3-1.jpg


then headlining
5.jpg

Just a quick note, the rear deck cover is in two parts, a hard plastic front section and a carpet covered cardboard rear section, there are silver screws around each 6x9 hole, and these hold the two parts together. It took ages to get the rear shelf off as the brake light hits the rears screen and it hasn't got enough clearance to pull off to get out of the way etc. Separating the shelf made it much easier going back in, and pretty surer it would have taken us a fraction of the time to remove it. Once the screws are out, pull up the front edge of the carpeted section and get that out the way would probably be the easiest for removal.

filling voids
8.jpg


Rear deck coated above and below
9.jpg

more roof deadening
10.jpg


Getting really dark so needed some light
12.jpg


Don't forget in front of the sunroof too!!!
The cage that houses the Courtesy lights and sunroof controls & alarm sensors needs double sided sticky
foam tape between it and the roof, otherwise with the amount of bass going thru the car would make it rattle
really badly, and I didn't fancy taking the roof lining out again either to fix it later!!
11.jpg


I hope these pics will help anyone attempting this kinda job, but obviously my car is being soundproofed for an ICE install, not just general soundproofing. I have much more to do including the boot, bootlid and the doors yet, will take a fair while longer than guesstimated, but the job is being done pretty thoroughly, so slow & steadfast will get the best results......
 
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