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Wheel Sensors - My Experience of drilling out.

How many miles on It?

My original turbo was knackered when I bought the car at 148k, so it liked a little smoke.

The result of long oil changes and a thrashing from cold I expect.
 
Careful about covering up ABS/VSA warning lights... having damaged my front sensors while changing the lower ball joints I was worried about missing the MoT retest date, so discussed my ABS/VSA problems with the MoT tester - he told me that not only are they meant to check that all the warning lights come on when the ignition is first switched on, they also have to briefly turn off the traction control switch when the engine is running to check that the warning light comes back on.

In summary, he was clear that all warning lights ***ociated with the VSA/ABS system have to be functional but extinguished.
 
Bugger, My next question was how to remove the top cover of the instrument panel (beyond the two screws at the top of the clear piece)

I don't need to cover the ABS light as it is now out, but is looking as though I would have to replace the VSA system under the bonnet to fix the other two, but I won't get/fit one before Wednesday.
 
My ABS light shows.
Maybe the fact that that can be seen means that they never go hunting for others?
 
Channel Hopper said:
******, My next question was how to remove the top cover of the instrument panel (beyond the two screws at the top of the clear piece)
Click to expand...
Just has a load of prongs that clip into the main instrument panel (if you mean the tinted cover?)
 
Before I do start covering up the two lights - I need pointers for that as I've searched the forum for instrument removal, is there anything else that could prevent the VSA light from going out ?

I have the 16" wheels/tyres and I made sure I was on level ground/non camber before neutralising, checked the two fuses under the bonnet (are there others elsewhere)?
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Just has a load of prongs that clip into the main instrument panel (if you mean the tinted cover?)
Click to expand...
I ***ume I need to take the curved lid above it , this was how I accessed bulbs etc in the Citroen.
 
Oh, I didn't go that far.
Satin finish Black tape on a satin black background under a black tinted cover. You can't see it.

Only taped up the VSA light too. I know it has no traction control.

I'd like to know if there's an ABS fault though, which is why that's still visible.

In the MOT blurb it says that traction control and stability control may be intentionally disabled but cant show any warning lights. Thats exactly the situation with my car.
Intentionally disabled due to me having 2 kids I'd rather spend my money on instead.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Oh, I didn't go that far.
Satin finish Black tape on a satin black background under a black tinted cover. You can't see it.
Click to expand...
Yes but I haven't got behind the clear front as yet to tape any light, how did you access behind it ?

Going back to eliminating any other reason, is there a connector nearby/under the bonnet that might be loose/corroded ?
 
Getting the bit off on the left?




Just un-clips.
 
Thanks, I'll consider that later this evening.

The big block connector on the VSA (and I ***ume ABS) unit, what is the best way to get to it, to make sure it is fully connected. I can't get my hands anywhere near without removing something. I think the washer water inlet would be the first to take off, but what next ?
 
That little 8mm headed m6 bolt that holds the washer neck undoes as you say, and you can pull the whole filler neck out.

Beyond that, the next step's headlamp out, which is surprisingly easy and approx a 5 minute job.
 
hmmm just a word of caution

I've been going to the same MOT test station for ~30 years (with all the cars I've ever had).

One mechanic with VOSA certification has been there the whole time. There's another younger mechanic with VOSA certification who's been there the last 20 years.

I'm always there, I sit in the driver's seat and work the controls when the car is up on the ramp (saves them getting another mechanic to do it). Before the car goes on the ramp, they do the brake test, but (and this is the point), the one that's younger and been there 20 years looks at the VSA lights before he switches the engine on, and, he presses the VSA button to see if the light toggles on and back off. The older chap doesn't bother.
 
freddofrog said:
hmmm just a word of caution

I've been going to the same MOT test station for ~30 years (with all the cars I've ever had).

One mechanic with VOSA certification has been there the whole time. There's another younger mechanic with VOSA certification who's been there the last 20 years.

I'm always there, I sit in the driver's seat and work the controls when the car is up on the ramp (saves them getting another mechanic to do it). Before the car goes on the ramp, they do the brake test, but (and this is the point), the one that's younger and been there 20 years looks at the VSA lights before he switches the engine on, and, he presses the VSA button to see if the light toggles on and back off. The older chap doesn't bother.
Click to expand...
This is what I was trying to tell Channel Hopper... the MoT tester should notice that the light isn't working and issue a fail. This exercise is not a good idea.
 
Jon_G said:
This is what I was trying to tell Channel Hopper... the MoT tester should notice that the light isn't working and issue a fail. This exercise is not a good idea.
Click to expand...
aye it is a fail if the mechanic doing the test checks the lights (and the button)
 
Channel Hopper said:
Worse than an advisory on the VSA lights then
Click to expand...
It isn't an advisory, so far as I'm aware it's a fail.

I wasn't making it up when I said I'd spoken to my MoT tester before my retest... he was quite clear that any of the ABS/VSA warning lights being on was a fail, and that they thoroughly check that the warning lights are functional. Otherwise I wouldn't have spent a late night the day before the retest frantically fitting the replacement sensors!

But I'll admit that I haven't directly checked VOSA's requirements for myself.
 
Jon_G said:
It isn't an advisory, so far as I'm aware it's a fail.

I wasn't making it up when I said I'd spoken to my MoT tester before my retest... he was quite clear that any of the ABS/VSA warning lights being on was a fail, and that they thoroughly check that the warning lights are functional. Otherwise I wouldn't have spent a late night the day before the retest frantically fitting the replacement sensors!

But I'll admit that I haven't directly checked VOSA's requirements for myself.
Click to expand...
other than frantically fitting sensors, exactly the same here ;)
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
That little 8mm headed m6 bolt that holds the washer neck undoes as you say, and you can pull the whole filler neck out.

Beyond that, the next step's headlamp out, which is surprisingly easy and approx a 5 minute job.
Click to expand...
Ive found the two 10mm bolts on top of the headlight brackets, what next to remove it ?

Edit, scrap that .
 
freddofrog said:
other than frantically fitting sensors, exactly the same here ;)
Click to expand...
But functionality of VSA is not a requirment as somebody mentioned earlier. I could remove the required fuse and - theoretically - it would be out of the car's electrical circuit.
 
Channel Hopper said:
But functionality of VSA is not a requirment as somebody mentioned earlier. I could remove the required fuse and - theoretically - it would be out of the car's electrical circuit.
Click to expand...
if the mechanic doing the test is being thorough, he/she will attempt to toggle the VSA light on and then off, I've seen it done (see #105)

I'm not 100% certain if it is a fail , it didn't used to be, it was 2 years ago that that particular mechanic checked the VSA button (as I say, the older chap isn't so fussy on something like that, he did the MOT last time and didn't check it)
 
I have to admit, if it got to the point they were clicking the button, I'd remove the button and fit another switch blank.

No button to press, no light to look for.
 
Whatever way it goes, I'm not throwing hundreds of pounds at fixing a nanny function that's unnecessary in my cheap old car that I use three times a month.
 
Channel Hopper said:
I've spotted this , but it means bumper removal.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1406-headlight-removal-and-part-of-the-bumper/

How to do in say 30 minutes without removing it ?
Click to expand...
Edit x 2

Found an alternative route, by taking off the small triangular bracket that has the function of holding up an air conditioner pipe, I've managed to get to the connector with just enough room to flick the orange lockdown - just.

http://www.imagebam.com/image/e9b636547679163

A light bit of electrical spray inside and I'll take her out for a short run tomorrow, see if it has helped.
 
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