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Wheel Sensors - My Experience of drilling out.

Done, I think

All debris that I can see is plucked out, burning the sensor apart and progressing slowly.

Washed out the inside with hyperclean and the remainder of the bits appear to have washed out with the water.

I'll put the new sensor in when the hub has dried out and take her for a spin later this afternoon.

http://www.imagebam.com/image/f17f53546422890

Burning the old stuff out appears to work well,but it is tough going with the tweezers (and keeping the mobile phone torch on for an hour)
 
Great that you've got there in the end.
Fingers crossed that everything's AOK for you.
 
Thanks

As a final test, I've charred some of the larger bits of debris and they incinerate in the same fashion as the earlier sensor loom part, so it is unlikely I've inadvertently taken out some bearing seal material in the process.
 
Jon_G said:
I've run out of 'likes'.
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Happens to me all the time, it's daft isn't it.
Maybe we should all go on strike and relocate to that vitrual pub until someone increases the quota, or even removes it
 
Maybe a few of us are locked in a sad and desperate cycle of mutual liking?

It's all a bit pointless anyway... I tend to judge the advice of others based upon other factors. Sometimes it's just a lazy way to acknowledge a post (I think someone else here recently made that same observation).

I call for the 'like' button to be scrapped!
 
I like the like.

It's a good way of saying thanks for making a decent contribution rather than spewing out a load of dog**** into the page.
 
Hey my "likes" are back, I just gave you a like LOL

I like the fact that you like the likes



edit: and I have one spare for Jon on #35
 
And the lights have not gone out after about five miles of driving, so tomorrow its back to the Pins 4-9 diagnostics to see what else is giving bad readings.
 
Channel Hopper said:
And the lights have not gone out after about five miles of driving, so tomorrow its back to the Pins 4-9 diagnostics to see what else is giving bad readings.
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Oh no!

Hopefully it'll just be an 84-1 neutralisation issue.
 
Fingers crossed. Is it just the one sensor you've replaced?
 
Jon_G said:
Oh no!
Hopefully it'll just be an 84-1 neutralisation issue.
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Tell me more.

Also there is this three long, seven short blinks on the engine indicator, am I right in thinking this is third cylinder misfire ( on a diesel ?) or something entirely different ?
 
Here's a repost of a link I put in another recent ABS thread about neutralising (re-balancing) the ABS/VSA system... http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/31353-error-code-84-vsa-sensor-neutral-position-memorization.html

But I'm not sure it'll help much if you're not reading an 84-1 stored code. Might be worth trying though, as it shouldn't do any harm.

Any code for an engine-related problem would be stored as a P code on the engine ECU and so readable using an obd2 scanner. So I don't think that the code you're reading is engine-related... and I've never heard of a misfire code on a diesel. Not sure what that code (37-1?) might be, but it could be historic and unrelated to the current problems? If you delete it, does it return?
 
I haven't deleted it as yet, there were/are no engine troubles that I know of, this is all that flags up on the engine management light when in diagnostic mode for the ABS issue(s).

What I get to the car at lunchtime to play further I'll write down all that is shown.

From previous experience on Honda motorcycles I am wondering if there is a fuse somewhere in a box that might be open circuit , or a problematic earth and is throwing up odd faults.
 
When I changed mine, the ABS light went out just after I'd pulled off the drive.

I have an HDS ùnit if you want to borrow it and have an old laptop or similar that'll run XP.

Will happily post it out to you for the postage cost, and a promise it comes back when you're done.
 
freddofrog said:
isn't that ABS code 37 ?
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I believe so. I can't access my ESM at the moment, a quick google search suggests that it might be the brake pedal switch? But I'm worried it could be historic... I've probably got a whole bunch of stored codes on mine from driving around with the front sensors missing, plus every time the battery was a flat, etc, etc
 
Wow loads of talk on this post

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
Jon_G said:
I believe so. I can't access my ESM at the moment, a quick google search suggests that it might be the brake pedal switch? But I'm worried it could be historic... I've probably got a whole bunch of stored codes on mine from driving around with the front sensors missing, plus every time the battery was a flat, etc, etc
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Thanks, I did clean out the brake switch and regrease/check contact late last year based on the suggestions on this forum so I doubt it's that.

The 3-7 comes up on the engine warning light only (left of dashboard)
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
When I changed mine, the ABS light went out just after I'd pulled off the drive.

I have an HDS ùnit if you want to borrow it and have an old laptop or similar that'll run XP.

Will happily post it out to you for the postage cost, and a promise it comes back when you're done.
Click to expand...
Again, thank you, but what does an HDS unit look like ?

My hands are full of cuts after working for two hours in the cold yesterday so I will pass for the moment and try to check all other options in the warmth of the drivers seat over the weekend with the paperclip. I have forgotten quite how to diagnose further , but will read up/watch YouTube tomorrow.
 
Honda diagnostic system.

Plugs into the OBD port and a laptop, and you can do all the checks, reset procedures and stuff.

Let me know if you wanna borrow it.
 
Do yourself a favour and splash out a tenner (max.) to get a cheap OBD2 scanner so you can read, understand and clear engine ECU diagnostic trouble codes... at least you would then know what that mysterious ' 3 7' code is that you reckon is being stored on the engine ECU (which I can't understand at all how you are currently reading!). HDS will read all vehicle ECUs, not just the engine ECU like an OBD2 scanner.
 
Jon_G said:
Do yourself a favour and splash out a tenner (max.) to get a cheap OBD2 scanner so you can read, understand and clear engine ECU diagnostic trouble codes... at least you would then know what that mysterious ' 3 7' code is that you reckon is being stored on the engine ECU (which I can't understand at all how you are currently reading!). HDS will read all vehicle ECUs, not just the engine ECU like an OBD2 scanner.
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I'm using the paperclip method and the light comes on/flashes when the key is inserted to ignition on (2) setting

It's definitely 3-7 on the engine light, I just checked again long followed by short.

Without pressing the pedal (which is what I forgot from last time the ABS codes are

6-1
6-6 and
1-3

These don't clear when doing the 'press pedal when ABS light on, release when it goes out - twice' (but there are fewer than before I changed the sensor so I must be doing something right) and I'm still concerned about the VSA button that really doesn't feel like there is any contact behind the dash , should it make a 'click' or be absolutely silent when pressed?

I've checked the 30/40A fuses (17 and 18) in the big box and they are fine.

So, what to do next, apart from checking the codes from the chart ?
 
ABS/VSA 13 = Left Front Wheel Sensor (Open/Short to Body Ground/Short to Power)

ABS/VSA 61 = High or Low voltage (check charging system)

VSA 66 is the dreaded "pressure sensor" fault which requires the neutralisation procedure already mentioned several times in this thread


Your VSA switch is behaving normally, it's not a "clicking" switch



edit:
code 37 = ABS Solenoid fault
 
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