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Wheel Sensors - My Experience of drilling out.

I can't confirm whether that flashing sequence indicates a code 37, but the only faults with code 37 are either EPS fault (your car doesn't have EPS) or ABS solenoid fault.
 
Thanks

I'll disconnect the new sensor at the bonnet junction and see if that code goes out/changes tomorrow morning

You'll have to point me in the direction of the neutralising link as I have looked through the whole thread but can't see it. The iPod screen is about 10 x 5 cms which doesn't help things.
 
Jon_G said:
Here's a repost of a link I put in another recent ABS thread about neutralising (re-balancing) the ABS/VSA system... http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/31353-error-code-84-vsa-sensor-neutral-position-memorization.html

But I'm not sure it'll help much if you're not reading an 84-1 stored code. Might be worth trying though, as it shouldn't do any harm.

Any code for an engine-related problem would be stored as a P code on the engine ECU and so readable using an obd2 scanner. So I don't think that the code you're reading is engine-related... and I've never heard of a misfire code on a diesel. Not sure what that code (37-1?) might be, but it could be historic and unrelated to the current problems? If you delete it, does it return?
Click to expand...
Neutralisation instructions^^

I'm still not sure that you are actually reading any engine codes. And ABS/VSA fault codes would not be stored on the (separate) engine ECU.

It looks like the main issue is your front left sensor. I'm not sure how disconnecting it would give a different code, but hopefully it will. Where did you get that replacement sensor?
 
With my car, when the tone ring on the bearing was damaged, i'd start the car and pull away and it'd go out, then once I reached something like 10mph the and light would come back on.
 
Ah OK, it was the 84-1 that was throwing me off the scent

Sensor came via Amazon, I mentioned the dealer about a week ago, TAZO car parts, London. Manufacturer is DASLtd and price has risen to £40 since I bought it. Good reviews of parts supplier and manufacturer though.
 
OK, went out to the car armed with the new instructions on earthing Pin 9. Nothing I do with the VSA switch makes the light go out but I now have ABS light codes

1-3 and
6-6

So 6-1 has gone

Stabbed one of my finger cuts with the piece of twisted pair wire as well, so I hope it means something positive has occurred.

3-7 still on the engine light regardless

Edit, only the vehicle battery supply apparently . I'll try again once I have some plasters on.

Rats
 
Channel Hopper said:
Is there part of the paperclip procedure that will remove all codes/clear down to start again from scratch ?
Click to expand...
Jump pins 4 and 9

Press and hold the brake pedal and switch on the ignition

Wait for the ABS light to turn off and then remove your foot from the brake pedal.

Wait for the ABS light to turn on, then press and hold the brake pedal again

ABS light should turn off, then remove your foot from the brake pedal

Wait for two flashes of ABS light. If it flashes it means that errors are erased

Check the errors (with the pins jumped) - just turn the ignition on, if ABS light does not flash, no errors are in memory
 
I'll pull the sensor off the loom later today. If the 'short' warning changes to something else then I know the electrics of the car are doing their stuff
 
Channel Hopper said:
I'll pull the sensor off the loom later today. If the 'short' warning changes to something else then I know the electrics of the car are doing their stuff
Click to expand...
or it might not make any difference

ABS/VSA 13 = Left Front Wheel Sensor (Open/Short to Body Ground/Short to Power)

i.e. "Open circuit" (faulty sensor or wire broken) or "shorted to ground" (signal shorted to ground would indicate a short in the wires) or "shorted to power" (signal shorted to power would indicate an internal fault in the ABS/VSA module)
 
It may be worth checking the continuity of the new sensor using a digital multimeter. However I did that with the 'pair' I recently fitted (one Honda, one aftermarket) and there was a significant variance (e.g. the reverse bias figures had a 10:1 ratio)... nevertheless an open or short circuit sensor would be an obvious problem.
 
Will do. I also have enough twisted pair that I could swop over the left/right sensors under the bonnet. This would allow me to confirm that it is only the replacement or the loom.

What should I be looking at next to isolate/fix the 6-6 fault by the way since this may be the more labour intensive and costly ?
 
Channel Hopper said:
I also have enough twisted pair that I could swop over the left/right sensors under the bonnet. This would allow me to confirm that it is only the replacement or the loom.
Click to expand...
This is a good idea, but after you've done the wiring swap, make sure you clear the codes before you re-check the codes.

In the meantime, forget 66 until you've got 13 sorted, because a re-balance procedure probably won't work while you've got the 13.
 
Apologies to everyone, I owe you all a - virtual - beer or three.

In my methodical approach to getting the sensor into place, with routing the wiring first before attempting the removal of the old sensor debris from the hub, I chose not to connect the new one to the loom and forgot about it, hence the open circuit. Of course on opening the bonnet this afternoon the 'what a total t w a t' thought came to the fore.

So it's now all wired up, reset with 4-9 clip and pedal, and the VSA light has gone out.

I was going to take her for a test run but there is not enough juice in the battery to start so this is now on charge overnight, I may need a new one though as the Accord did prompt me with the other code, but I'll look into that once I get through the rest of the sensor stuff

Thanks again and apologies for the time wasting
 
LOL.

If all the lights are off (and stay off) then I'd put that 'engine' code on the back-burner until you but an OBD2 scanner and can then properly read the stored engine ECU diagnostic codes. At least any will then be in the 'P' format we all understand.
 
I'm just relieved it nothing more serious.
Well done CHopper
 
Another update with as many points as I can remember.

ABS light remains off after clearing down codes and driving a short while but after stopping, code 6-6 reappears.

Clear down again and try neutralising (tried three times on different level ground) VSA light does not go out but the warning triangle does flash three times which shows something is happening.

Additionally I can hear a 'clunk' from under the bonnet when I try the neutralising so I know a solenoid somewhere is doing its stuff, but it's not possible on my own to find out where from(sounds like in front of the engine and to the left when sat in the driver seat, or just outside the drivers door).

Engine light 3-7 is still apparent but that is on the back burner for now.

At least with the ABS fixed I can try for an MOT later this week. Must clean her and look at the nearside front sidelight though. Everything else seems to work though.
 
VSA not working isn't an issue for MOT if there's no warning light on the dash.

Removing the clocks to.stick.a bit of tape over it's a piece of cake though.

I've had no VSA for 18 months now. Not sure if it's worth the money fixing it TBH.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
VSA not working isn't an issue for MOT if there's no warning light on the dash.

Removing the clocks to.stick.a bit of tape over it's a piece of cake though.

I've had no VSA for 18 months now. Not sure if it's worth the money fixing it TBH.
Click to expand...
That looks like the way I'll be progressing, which screws need to be undone ?
 
'It drives like a new car, and besides the VSA issue (which I will correct properly)' ........ :D

Which begs another question. I've more or less emptied the fuel tank before half filling with that super duper clean diesel stuff from the pump, hoovered out the air filter and the engine oil is just under 3000 miles old.

But how do others ensure the engine is not pumping out excessive naughty gases without taking her for a relatively long run to the MOT station, just to get everything nice and warm ?

I will most likely take a detour via one local motorway junction to another and back again, but I'm sure the cameras are just itching to catch the number plate, as are plod if they are not on lunch.
 
There is no 'proper' MoT emissions test for diesels. There's an 'opacity test' for the degree of smoke emitted, but it'd have to be dreadfully bad to fail... under normal driving conditions I see smoke in my rear view mirror whenever the revs are over 3000 RPM and the throttle is more than 50%, but nothing is mentioned on the MoT.

My petrol Toyota though, now that has to be fully warmed up to pass the emissions testng...
 
I had a Citroen before this (running on veg oil most of the time ) for about six years, I could have sworn the testing station would thrash the nuts off the engine unless I told them in advance I was about to replace the fuel pump. Tbh they were more careful when they found the oil in the tank wasn't preheated and the filter had a tough time passing enough chip fat through on cold days.

I was also given a letter from them for a W reg Vanette 2.3D, again burning about 50% SVO before the LEZ zone commenced at New Malden, which confirmed she was as good as the later diesel vehicle class (this was around 2008). There was no upgrade available for the engine/exhaust except by replacing the whole lump wiith a petrol version but they couldn't give a toss at City Hall owing to the ANPR system they were going to use.
 
My diesel scored less than a percent of what it was allowed on the smoke test.

Gets a regular thrashing,
Only runs on regular, gets a splash of redex approx every 10 tanks,
And most importantly had a stage 2 EGR off tune from Fahad.

Never had a whiff of smoke. Motor has around 125k on it.
 
At standstill and normal driving conditions there is nothing visible,
I'd have to have somebody follow me when I put my foot down to check the colour, but I think it is a dark rather than grey/white from looking in the rear view mirror.

The car doesn't get much major road use currently, town driving/short distance only which is why I'd like to have a short blat beforehand, MOT now booked for Wednesday.
 
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