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fuel pressure regulator valve

L

leemond80

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2.2 ICTDI Sport
Hi All,

I have had to call the AA out to my car as it has a very rough idle and then yesterday it stalled and wouldnt start again for 10 mins.

To cut a long sotry short he tapped the fuel pressure regulator valve on the side of the engine towards the back and the rough idle went away until i got home.

I have been trying to find the part on the net but cant seem to find it.

Does anyone know if this is an easy job and more importantly how expensive the part is.

This car now feels like a ****** project with the amount of repairs I have done.

Cheers guys,

Lee
 
Hi Lee,

Our last posts crossed each other, but I just posted a comment on your previous thread. I also have this problem and you might want to keep an eye on the replies I'm getting

Jon
 
lee said:
Hi All,

I have had to call the AA out to my car as it has a very rough idle and then yesterday it stalled and wouldnt start again for 10 mins.

To cut a long sotry short he tapped the fuel pressure regulator valve on the side of the engine towards the back and the rough idle went away until i got home.

I have been trying to find the part on the net but cant seem to find it.

Does anyone know if this is an easy job and more importantly how expensive the part is.

This car now feels like a ****** project with the amount of repairs I have done.

Cheers guys,

Lee
Click to expand...


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-KIT-Gauge-Hose-RED-/180765927709?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a167d291d


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-3-4-5-BAR-ADJUSTABLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-/380362367151?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588f5d20af
 
It doesn't have to be expensive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fuel+pressure+regulator+universal&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_odkw=fuel+pressure+regulator+diesel&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
 
crespo said:
It doesn't have to be expensive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fuel+pressure+regulator+universal&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_odkw=fuel+pressure+regulator+diesel&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
Click to expand...

If it's one of those, then I think it's a different problem to mine!

Mine is - I think - an electrically controlled valve attached to the bulkhead end of the diesel pump (so, as you look under the bonnet with the cover off, down the RH side of the engine towards the back). Had a problem a while back with fuel pressure too high (DTC P0088), but striking this component and putting BG244 cleaner in the tank appeared to put that problem right. Different problem now, but DTC P1059 has been suggested to be related to this valve. It looks like it can be detached from the diesel pump.
 
Mine is the same part so i think the same problem as you Jon. If it can be removed it can be replaced hopefully. I will call HH tomorrow to get some advice.
 
Jon_G said:
If it's one of those, then I think it's a different problem to mine!

Mine is - I think - an electrically controlled valve attached to the bulkhead end of the diesel pump (so, as you look under the bonnet with the cover off, down the RH side of the engine towards the back). Had a problem a while back with fuel pressure too high (DTC P0088), but striking this component and putting BG244 cleaner in the tank appeared to put that problem right. Different problem now, but DTC P1059 has been suggested to be related to this valve. It looks like it can be detached from the diesel pump.
Click to expand...
DTC code P1059 is a Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Open.1st thing to do is check for any loose connections or broken cables.
 
Brett are you familiar with this part of the engine? Do you know if it can be removed and cleaned? or just replaced?
 
lee said:
Brett are you familiar with this part of the engine? Do you know if it can be removed and cleaned? or just replaced?
Click to expand...
Im not 100% but in most cases there is a short on the cables somewhere.
TBH your better taken it to HH as they will sort you out.
 
brett said:
DTC code P1059 is a Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Open.1st thing to do is check for any loose connections or broken cables.
Click to expand...
...I've been playing this afternoon and when I remove the connector on what I believe to be the offending fuel pressure control valve (which would replicate a broken cable or ineffective connector), I get DTC P1057. Advice I've received on the CivInfo site (quoting a Honda source) suggests DTC P1059 is a "Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Shorted to Power" condition, which I guess may point to either a wiring loom or, gulp, an ECU fault. At the moment, with the connector back in place, my car is still running fine (but for how long?).

However - here in Lee's case - if the AA guy effected a repair by tapping the valve, then I thinking that this probably indicates a mechanical problem with the valve?

Jon
 
lee said:
Brett are you familiar with this part of the engine? Do you know if it can be removed and cleaned? or just replaced?
Click to expand...
...I can see that it's held in place with 2 screws and looks like you'd have to remove the air cleaner box to get to it properly (this isn't very difficult).
 
Please be careful over removing the valve. I don't know about this particular model pump but I do know that on some types if you remove and replace the valve you have to go through a learning procedure which can only be done with the proper diagnostic equipment.

If the valve is sticking one thing worth trying is adding about half a litre of oil to a tank of fuel. Sometimes it provides sufficient extra lubrication to get the valve moving smoothly again.

Alan
 
Jon_G said:
...I've been playing this afternoon and when I remove the connector on what I believe to be the offending fuel pressure control valve (which would replicate a broken cable or ineffective connector), I get DTC P1057. Advice I've received on the CivInfo site (quoting a Honda source) suggests DTC P1059 is a "Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Shorted to Power" condition, which I guess may point to either a wiring loom or, gulp, an ECU fault. At the moment, with the connector back in place, my car is still running fine (but for how long?).

However - here in Lee's case - if the AA guy effected a repair by tapping the valve, then I thinking that this probably indicates a mechanical problem with the valve?

Jon
Click to expand...
Jon DTC code P1057 is Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Shorted to Power
DTC code p1059 is Fuel Rail Pressure Control Valve Circuit Open
Hope this helps
 
H Peasource said:
Please be careful over removing the valve. I don't know about this particular model pump but I do know that on some types if you remove and replace the valve you have to go through a learning procedure which can only be done with the proper diagnostic equipment.

If the valve is sticking one thing worth trying is adding about half a litre of oil to a tank of fuel. Sometimes it provides sufficient extra lubrication to get the valve moving smoothly again.

Alan
Click to expand...
...The diesel pump isn't coded to the ECU on this design. I know this is sometimes the case on other engines, but I've seen it stated as OK the swap the pump several times on the internet. Other than the pressure control valve power lead (only 2 pins) there are no other cables to the pump.

There are certainly some who add 2 stroke to the fuel tank for added lube - I have instead used BG244 with, apparently, positive results.

Jon
 
I can get a fuel pump from aster for £80 so I
May jut replace the thing and get HH to fit it if it's a complicated job?
 
Does anyone know of a guide on replacing the fuel pump? I would be quite keen on replacing it myself. HH said the valve is part of the pump so I would need a whole new unit to solve this problem. So I am picking up a used one on Thursday and will either fit it myself or get HH to do it, if its a specialist job.

any advice on that would be appreciated.
 
Lee, when you look at pumps for sale on eBay, they look simply to be held in place with a few bolts. My concern would be the drive mechanism, so I wouldn't personally attempt this without finding out how to ensure the drive can be disconnected and reconnected. Maybe you can work this out by looking at the replacement part? Sorry I can't be more helpful, but I hope someone else can be.

I think you're right to replace the whole pump, as I now think the actual valve is a fixed component of it. I believe that the removable part I've been looking at with the electrical connections is only the solenoid actuator for the fuel pressure control valve and will come off leaving the actual valve in place. Although, in my case, it's this solenoid actuator that seems to have in intermittent short circuit which stops my engine (so I could be interested in buying your old solenoid when when you get round to swapping over the pumps - please do bear this in mind). You're very lucky to get a pump for only £80 - Honda would charge you almost £2000 (plus VAT?).

For anyone else interested in further details (albeit non-Honda) of the Bosch common rail system, here is a link to a useful article... http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1618 - control valve explained as follows:

The second step is fuel volume control to the high-pressure pump. The magnetic proportional valve (M-PROP) is used to control the volume of fuel supplied to the high-pressure pump. The M-PROP is controlled by the engine control module (ECM) using a variable pulse width. The ECM increases and decreases the high-pressure pump volume based on vehicle operating conditions and information supplied by the rail pressure sensor (RPS). For example, if the RPS indicates the fuel rail pressure is low, the pulse width is decreased, allowing more fuel to enter the high-pressure pump, in a sense operating in a closed-loop strategy.

Vehicle manufacturers will use different names, but the goal is the same—control fuel volume. Some other names for this sensor are fuel quantity solenoid, fuel control actuator and fuel volume control valve.

Jon
 
all fixed! I changed the high pressure pump and its all better now. on to the next problem then.
 
lee said:
all fixed! I changed the high pressure pump and its all better now. on to the next problem then.
Click to expand...
Lee - glad you've got it working. Please don't forget that I said I was interested in the electrical solenoid part from your old pump (I still have the problem with mine).

I've just PM'd you.

Cheers, Jon
 
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