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Driving with a P1259 Error

conyoman

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Accord SE 6th Gen
Hi all,

Bit of a nightmare.

My car has just thrown up an error p1259 - vtec issue by the looks of it.

The problem I have is that the car is in airport parking (the light came on 1 mile out from the airport!) and when I get back I have to drive 50 miles down the A38 including a huge steep hill.

Is it an issue driving with this error? I'm going to clear the error and hope it's just a lose connection, but if the error is thrown back, can I drive 50 miles with that error or should I call breakdown services?

Thanks
 
Try disconnecting the Vtec solenoid and reconnecting it.

It's the little black plug under the dizzy cap.

Hopefully resetting the ECU will sort the issue, but if it doesn't it shouldn't be an issue driving with the light, just make sure you don't rag the car and that it has enough oil in it.
 
Thanks,

When you say under the dizzy cap, I take it that it's easy to spot?
Sorry for the dumb question - I'm in France and the car is in Exeter so I can't take a look! I ***ume it'll be easy to spot and pull off?

This is the best picture I can find on google, is it the black cable leading to the black clip??

http://i37.tinypic.com/2rmmkuw.jpg

Try disconnecting the Vtec solenoid and reconnecting it.

It's the little black plug under the dizzy cap.

Hopefully resetting the ECU will sort the issue, but if it doesn't it shouldn't be an issue driving with the light, just make sure you don't rag the car and that it has enough oil in it.
 
Yeah dude it's very easy to spot. I think it's the only plug in that area of the bay. And it's not a dumb question at all.

But as I said, reset the ECU as well and see if that rods yourself of the code. I should imagine its just a bit of damp inside the solenoid
 
ok, thanks - I'm completely colour blind so would probably just pull out and replug a couple of sensors!

Interesting that you say it might just be damp, the day it came on it was absolutely chucking it down. And it came on at the end of an hour drive.

I'll do both, reset ECU and play with the plug and hope for the best!


Yeah dude it's very easy to spot. I think it's the only plug in that area of the bay. And it's not a dumb question at all.

But as I said, reset the ECU as well and see if that rods yourself of the code. I should imagine its just a bit of damp inside the solenoid
 
As long as the cars got oil, it's not gonna be an issue so no need to worry dude.
 
Managed to clear the code and play with the connections and it worked!

The oil was low, so I went to halfords and topped up - the recommended 10/40 magnatec part synthetic.......is that the right stuff or have i just put rubbish in there (it was plenty expensive enough!)

Then on the way home the drivers side front brake is seizing on - it was red hot by the time I pulled up!! In to the garage with that one


As long as the cars got oil, it's not gonna be an issue so no need to worry dude.
 
Managed to clear the code and play with the connections and it worked!

The oil was low, so I went to halfords and topped up - the recommended 10/40 magnatec part synthetic.......is that the right stuff or have i just put rubbish in there (it was plenty expensive enough!)

Then on the way home the drivers side front brake is seizing on - it was red hot by the time I pulled up!! In to the garage with that one

As long as it is 10w/40 semi-synth, it will be fine yes. You will get some people recommend 5w/30 fully-synth, but that grade is too thin and will cause smoking especially when engaging VTEC. Good to hear of you solving the VTEC issues. One thing I would reccomend is to keep a closer eye on the oil level. F-series do not like running near the minimum level for long periods, and if not topped up quick enough, will cause top end wear. Also if it's low enough, VTEC won't engage at all as there will be insufficient oil pressure.

One final thing...The brake caliper. Have you considered doing it yourself? The issue is with the sliders. It is VERY simple to remove them, allowing you to clean/re-grease them.
 
that's good news about the oil! Was worried halfords had done me up a kipper....

As for the brakes - no I hadn't considered doing it myself. I've done it with a mountain bikes hydraulic brakes.....but this is a much bigger more dangerous scale....is it that easy to do?

As long as it is 10w/40 semi-synth, it will be fine yes. You will get some people recommend 5w/30 fully-synth, but that grade is too thin and will cause smoking especially when engaging VTEC. Good to hear of you solving the VTEC issues. One thing I would reccomend is to keep a closer eye on the oil level. F-series do not like running near the minimum level for long periods, and if not topped up quick enough, will cause top end wear. Also if it's low enough, VTEC won't engage at all as there will be insufficient oil pressure.

One final thing...The brake caliper. Have you considered doing it yourself? The issue is with the sliders. It is VERY simple to remove them, allowing you to clean/re-grease them.
 
that's good news about the oil! Was worried halfords had done me up a kipper....

As for the brakes - no I hadn't considered doing it myself. I've done it with a mountain bikes hydraulic brakes.....but this is a much bigger more dangerous scale....is it that easy to do?

Very easy! Simply remove the to bolts holding on the caliper to the carrier, move the caliper out the way then simply pull out the sliders and work away! Use some fine emry paper to remove any corrosion, then grease up the sliders with some high temp grease...Should work a treat!
 
Caliper is destroyed!!!

The garage had to fit a new caliper and keep the sliding pins.

They've advised to replace the pins as they're not great - but after looking around they can only find Honda supply them, and they come with the whole carrier which is £140 per side!! so £280 + labour!!! :eek:

I will be checking the for sale section......


Very easy! Simply remove the to bolts holding on the caliper to the carrier, move the caliper out the way then simply pull out the sliders and work away! Use some fine emry paper to remove any corrosion, then grease up the sliders with some high temp grease...Should work a treat!
 
Caliper is destroyed!!!

The garage had to fit a new caliper and keep the sliding pins.

They've advised to replace the pins as they're not great - but after looking around they can only find Honda supply them, and they come with the whole carrier which is £140 per side!! so £280 + labour!!! :eek:

I will be checking the for sale section......

How exactly is the caliper "destroyed"?

I would check the prices as from here it sounds like the garage is having you on.
 
It is possible that the heat has damaged the seals? But, if things got that hot, I'd also be concerned about the wheel bearing!

But no need to touch the other side... calipers do not need to be changed in pairs.
 
Not sure - but I know one of the guys in the workshop and he said the caliper was destroyed and not reusable. He said the pads, disc etc were ok and plenty of life in them. But he did say the sliding pins will need to be replaced soon

They can't find a supplier that will provide just the sliders, all their suppliers provide the whole mounting kit which is £140 per side. The agreed that if I can get the sliders on their own, they'll fit them.


How exactly is the caliper "destroyed"?

I would check the prices as from here it sounds like the garage is having you on.



Yep, calipers were just on one side - drivers side

It is possible that the heat has damaged the seals? But, if things got that hot, I'd also be concerned about the wheel bearing!

But no need to touch the other side... calipers do not need to be changed in pairs.
 
I'm confused....They say that it is destroyed, yet have not offered you a thorough description of the issue. Yes, it is possible that heat could of caused the seals to fail, but this would be more likely to cause complete or partial brake failure as fluid would then escape past the seals and air would enter the braking system. Also, if the caliper got hot enough to cause seal failure, then at the very least I would be expecting a warped disc and possibly glazed pads, but the mechanic has said they are fine.

My opinion....Take it to another garage and get a second opinion! They are saying to you that the slider pins are ******ed, correct? Well, I'm yet to see a 6th Gen knacker the front pins, and I've worked on hundreds of the ****** things! At worst, they have had a little corrosion pitting, which can be easily resolved via some emry paper and grease. Either way OP it's upto you, but something doesn't seem right here. If you would like, you could happily pass on my phone number to them and ask them to call me.
 
wow, ok thanks for this information! I've already paid and had the work done to replace the caliper.

I think I'm going to put the car up on stands over the long weekend and take a look at the pins. Like if it's just dirt and pitting, I'll give it a go to clean that myself.



I'm confused....They say that it is destroyed, yet have not offered you a thorough description of the issue. Yes, it is possible that heat could of caused the seals to fail, but this would be more likely to cause complete or partial brake failure as fluid would then escape past the seals and air would enter the braking system. Also, if the caliper got hot enough to cause seal failure, then at the very least I would be expecting a warped disc and possibly glazed pads, but the mechanic has said they are fine.

My opinion....Take it to another garage and get a second opinion! They are saying to you that the slider pins are ******ed, correct? Well, I'm yet to see a 6th Gen knacker the front pins, and I've worked on hundreds of the ****** things! At worst, they have had a little corrosion pitting, which can be easily resolved via some emry paper and grease. Either way OP it's upto you, but something doesn't seem right here. If you would like, you could happily pass on my phone number to them and ask them to call me.
 
wow, ok thanks for this information! I've already paid and had the work done to replace the caliper.

I think I'm going to put the car up on stands over the long weekend and take a look at the pins. Like if it's just dirt and pitting, I'll give it a go to clean that myself.

You're welcome. Make sure to get the old caliper off them and ask them to tell you specifically what the problem is with the caliper. 6th Gens are known for giving rear caliper trouble, with mine alone first having a seized handbrake mechanism (It's a geared spindle which pushes the inner rear pad on when applying the handbrake. Gets full of crud and moisture and seizes up.) and then a seal failure which meant I had to rebuild the caliper with new seals. Strayed a bit off topic there...Anyway I was trying to say that while it is very common for these cars to give rear caliper trouble, the only time I have ever seen them give trouble with the fronts is when they stick on due to dry/pitted sliders. Everytime someone has brought there 6th gen to me with this issue, it has just been a simple case of me whipping out the sliders, greasing them up and sending the customer on there way. As of yet, I have had none of the customers return with further "stickyness" and let's be honest, simple stuff like greasing sliders will need to be done on any car of this age, as the 6th gens are getting a bit long in the tooth now eh!

Please do not be afraid to contact me if you need anything else. I like to help people with these cars as I really do know every nut and bolt on them, but at the same time I don't like to see people getting mislead or ripped off. :)

P.S, could I be so rude and ask how much the garage have charged you for the caliper + fitting?
 
Ok, I'll pop up there tonight and ask - I suspect it has been binned already as this was done Monday.

The cost was £173 for new caliper and fitting (bleed brakes etc)

Thanks for the offer of help with the car. I'll give the brakes a go on the weekend - there's loads of stuff on youtube and it looks dead simple!!!


P.S, could I be so rude and ask how much the garage have charged you for the caliper + fitting?
 
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