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Was this a good buy?

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Rob23

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Mk7 Honda accord tou
Just brought an 2007 tourer 2.2 i-CTDI
Was wondering if i was a good purchase i have only ever really heard good things from these and I am a big honda fan. Will get some better photos, am away atm won't be back until Wednesday. Admittedly it does have a rusty wheel arch and what seems to be a ball joint noise, and apparently they need a tool or something to do those (only ever done a normal ball joint these look weird).
 

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Yes they’re great cars, and given decent maintenance will last you several hundred thousand miles of reliable motoring. Also have great tuning potential.
 
Completely alien dials / dashboard to my 05 estate but similar mileage for the year difference. I've had almost a decade of fun with mine.

How much and did you get the service history ?
 
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@F6HAD was looking into the tuning part, just stage 1 and gets a nice 40-50 hp increase and 50ish nm torque but was wondering if there is any point will it affect the longevity of the engine life and fuel efficiency etc, and going to do a full service on it tomorrow, would you recommend a thicker oil and do you know anyway I can attack and treat the rusty wheel arch I will add some more photos tomorrow when im with the car.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Completely dials / dashboard to my 05 estate but similar mileage for the year difference. I've had almost a decade of fun with mine.

How much and did you get the service history ?
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Some service history until about a year ago apparently he serviced it him self but gonna do a full service tomorrow just to be safe and paid £750 which i think is a steal so not too much too lose.
 
Rob23 said:
@F6HAD was looking into the tuning part, just stage 1 and gets a nice 40-50 hp increase and 50ish nm torque but was wondering if there is any point will it affect the longevity of the engine life and fuel efficiency etc, and going to do a full service on it tomorrow, would you recommend a thicker oil and do you know anyway I can attack and treat the rusty wheel arch I will add some more photos tomorrow when im with the car.
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Not thicker oil........
 
I wouldn't use thicker oil, especially in this climate. The engine needs all the help it gets from immediate lubrication.
I use a 5W30 in mine and seems to work
 
Okay cool ill just get some of that then for it, currently being delayed to get the car im really looking forward to drive it and work on it, put a deposit down for him to realise the day before im meant to be collecting it, to realise he's lost the logbook, so he's applied for a new one (I hope) and hopefully won't be too long.
 
Stick to 0w30 fully synthetic oil. I’ve tuned plenty of high mileage examples with great results, it’s really down to how good an example the car is, mileage is sort of irrelevant.
 
Rob23 said:
No? I've heard using a thicker oil helps with higher milage engines?
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That applied in a previous era, when engines still had a "wear in" period, and mostly lasted about half the distance they do now. A half life rebuild was almost standard back then, but nowadays the components replaced in these rebuilds commonly outlast the car.

You might not think of your 20 year old diesel as particularly high tech, but Honda, at the time, pulled some new tricks out of the bag for this one, resulting in an exceptionally stiff yet light weight engine block. Honda engines in general, unless they have suffered some some sort of lubrication failure, are known to look almost new at the crankshaft end, when pulled apart at the "end" of their life. The only real weak area of the i-CTDi are the chains that drive the crankshafts (correction: camshafts) and waterpump. 0W30 synthetic oil appears to help extend chain life, particularly in the UK climate, as it gets around the engine very quickly even when cold.

Watch this Russian Youtube Channel - set captions to English - pull apart one of these engines. They mention a lot that can go wrong, but some of the things they mention rarely come up on this forum, so don't let that scare you. Mind you, the Russian climate is hard on cars in general.

 
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Richard B said:
That applied in a previous era, when engines still had a "wear in" period, and mostly lasted about half the distance they do now. A half life rebuild was almost standard back then, but nowadays the components replaced in these rebuilds commonly outlast the car.

You might not think of your 20 year old diesel as particularly high tech, but Honda, at the time, pulled some new tricks out of the bag for this one, resulting in an exceptionally stiff yet light weight engine block. Honda engines in general, unless they have suffered some some sort of lubrication failure, are known to look almost new at the crankshaft end, when pulled apart at the "end" of their life. The only real weak area of the i-CTDi are the chains that drive the crankshafts and waterpump. 0W30 synthetic oil appears to help extend chain life, particularly in the UK climate, as it gets around the engine very quickly even when cold.

Watch this Russian Youtube Channel - set captions to English - pull apart one of these engines. They mention a lot that can go wrong, but some of the things they mention rarely come up on this forum, so don't let that scare you. Mind you, the Russian climate is hard on cars in general.

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Not forgetting the cost of a decent oil change before the service interval on an unknown engine will pay the owner back in spades.
 
Channel Hopper said:
Not forgetting the cost of a decent oil change before the service interval on an unknown engine will pay the owner back in spades.
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Going to do a full service on it when I get it, first thing is that and then give it a good clean and wax on the outside and hoover the inside and wipe it
 
Richard B said:
That applied in a previous era, when engines still had a "wear in" period, and mostly lasted about half the distance they do now. A half life rebuild was almost standard back then, but nowadays the components replaced in these rebuilds commonly outlast the car.

You might not think of your 20 year old diesel as particularly high tech, but Honda, at the time, pulled some new tricks out of the bag for this one, resulting in an exceptionally stiff yet light weight engine block. Honda engines in general, unless they have suffered some some sort of lubrication failure, are known to look almost new at the crankshaft end, when pulled apart at the "end" of their life. The only real weak area of the i-CTDi are the chains that drive the crankshafts and waterpump. 0W30 synthetic oil appears to help extend chain life, particularly in the UK climate, as it gets around the engine very quickly even when cold.

Watch this Russian Youtube Channel - set captions to English - pull apart one of these engines. They mention a lot that can go wrong, but some of the things they mention rarely come up on this forum, so don't let that scare you. Mind you, the Russian climate is hard on cars in general.

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Just watched the video and wow it was pretty much immaculate, love the jap they are bloody amazing
 
Looks like a cracker buddy, really good cars I have enjoyed mine. Just remember to get it up on a ramp or on top of a pit and check for rust, unfortunately mine won’t last another year because of it. Happy motoring though!
 
SteveA87 said:
Looks like a cracker buddy, really good cars I have enjoyed mine. Just remember to get it up on a ramp or on top of a pit and check for rust, unfortunately mine won’t last another year because of it. Happy motoring though!
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Thank you and will do and thats unfortunately
 
A great buy - those Estates have more space than my 2015 CRV.
These 7th gens are fab cars and great to drive
Change the oil every 6k miles and they run forever
Keep on top of all other fluids too especially the gearbox fluid

I still have my 2006 ICTDI Accord and its at 320k miles with original clutch/turbo and chain etc - owned for 13 years now
Only thing I have changed is the alternator, power steering cooling pipe, a faulty rear ABS sensor and rear suspension dampers due to leaking

I have a 2015 idtec 2wd honda CRV now, but have retired the accord from my commute and gave it to the wife to do the short trips.
Shes still cracking on - for how long who knows. Maybe the wife will kill it lol
 
Wow that's amazing, puts my mind off the mileage and the wearing of the engine sounds amazing, I can't wait to get loads of miles under my belt with the car
 
The rusting rear wheel arch is a common problem - I had the off-side done last year and it's still looking ok. I've had my series 7 for 9 years now and I always use 5w 30 oil (Fuchs) and do my own oil/oil filter changes.
I can honestly say that with only 125,000 miles I still enjoy driving it, and I'm hoping it will keep going for some time yet. A great car.
 
tunstall said:
The rusting rear wheel arch is a common problem - I had the off-side done last year and it's still looking ok. I've had my series 7 for 9 years now and I always use 5w 30 oil (Fuchs) and do my own oil/oil filter changes.
I can honestly say that with only 125,000 miles I still enjoy driving it, and I'm hoping it will keep going for some time yet. A great car.
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How much did it cost for the wheel arch to be done, and yeah I do all the servicing and mechanical bits my self with my dad.
 
Done all the servicing a few days ago, full service, corrosion is next its not great but it is repairable and then after that is the cosmetic of course
 
accord_n22 said:
A great buy - those Estates have more space than my 2015 CRV.
These 7th gens are fab cars and great to drive
Change the oil every 6k miles and they run forever
Keep on top of all other fluids too especially the gearbox fluid

I still have my 2006 ICTDI Accord and its at 320k miles with original clutch/turbo and chain etc - owned for 13 years now
Only thing I have changed is the alternator, power steering cooling pipe, a faulty rear ABS sensor and rear suspension dampers due to leaking

I have a 2015 idtec 2wd honda CRV now, but have retired the accord from my commute and gave it to the wife to do the short trips.
Shes still cracking on - for how long who knows. Maybe the wife will kill it lol
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My EX Saloon on about 283K. Will probably get to 300 by the beginning of next year. Brilliant cars, especially the Tourer.

Rust will kill these cars before the engines if properly maintained.


Rob23:

When you do the service get a fuel filter/strainer changed with a genuine Honda one as they car cause issues when if not changed or using bad quality ones. Yours is a 2007 like mine so will be a Denso filter

www.coxmotorparts.co.uk

Genuine Honda Accord Diesel Fuel Filter 2006-2008 (16901RJLE01) - Cox Motor Parts

Buy Genuine Honda Accord Diesel Fuel Filter 2006-2008 (16901RJLE01) from Cox Motor Parts. Learn more.
www.coxmotorparts.co.uk www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
 
I used a
Remedi said:
My EX Saloon on about 283K. Will probably get to 300 by the beginning of next year. Brilliant cars, especially the Tourer.

Rust will kill these cars before the engines if properly maintained.


Rob23:

When you do the service get a fuel filter/strainer changed with a genuine Honda one as they car cause issues when if not changed or using bad quality ones. Yours is a 2007 like mine so will be a Denso filter

www.coxmotorparts.co.uk

Genuine Honda Accord Diesel Fuel Filter 2006-2008 (16901RJLE01) - Cox Motor Parts

Buy Genuine Honda Accord Diesel Fuel Filter 2006-2008 (16901RJLE01) from Cox Motor Parts. Learn more.
www.coxmotorparts.co.uk www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Click to expand...
I always go for bocsh as they are reasonable priced and good quality, I've always used them for all my cars
 
Rob23 said:
I used a

I always go for bocsh as they are reasonable priced and good quality, I've always used them for all my cars
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Yeah I use Bosch air, oil and pollen filters but I always use OEM Honda fuel filters. My first Accord have a Bosch service and the Bosch filter used caused so many fuel/running issues so i'm talking from experience.

I don't mind paying a bit extra and they only need to get changed every 20000/30000 miles.
 
Remedi said:
Yeah I use Bosch air, oil and pollen filters but I always use OEM Honda fuel filters. My first Accord have a Bosch service and the Bosch filter used caused so many fuel/running issues so i'm talking from experience.

I don't mind paying a bit extra and they only need to get changed every 20000/30000 miles.
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Oh wow didn't realise the intervals were that much!! Also I've had no starting or running issues yet but if I do i will replace it with Honda OEM definitely
 
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