Recent content by Daveybee

Hi. All of the above will help and make sure your tracking is set right.

Did u change the cap and rotor and put the seal on?

Hi. Could be your front engine mount,that will cause jerkiness taking off.

Hi there. Welcome along,cant wait for the pics,sounds like you got a good one!

Tbh id change the entire arm as the 2 inner bushes on the arm are probably worn aswell.

Theres no clutch cable,its hydraulic,ie,fluid operation. Its probably the clutch master or slave cylinder. Easiest one to change without diagnosing is the slave on the gearbox. To diagnose you would be listening for any squeaking,knocking,or anything that doesent feel smooth in operation. And...

Welcome. Id try pulling each of the leads one by one and see if the knock goes away. If it does go away your looking at rod bearings or gudgen pin. How does the car drive?

Re valve clearence If the valve lash is .006 then 007 should not fit ,thats how you know if its the right gap. Edit .007

Id say Andy is spot on there.

Hi. Sounds like new tyres are needed. Id put 37psi in the front and lower inthe back,that should help in the meantime. :)

I have a rattle too. Its mainly noticable on light load in second gear around 2500 rpm. Ive done all the checks you have and even fitted an oil pressure gauge and vacuum but it doesnt show anything when the rattle occurs. In hot weather its not as noticable so im guessing a clearence issue...

Lucky there Stevie. Hey Andy what kind of rattle do you have? Anybody who blocks the egr will have fuelling issues as the map sensor knows how much air is in the engine and will fuel accordingly.But if the egr is blocked the measured "air" will not match what the ecu thinks is there. Of course...

If you take out the starter motor and use a bar to stop the flywheel moving you will get it open. 2 man job but it works.

Well exec,how did it go for you?

When taking out the plugs make sure nothing falls into the holes or it could be an expensive service.