Recent content by dynacord

Well, not sure if I've seen a long-term review in this thread, so I can give a quick one. I've done Sergey's reflash more than three years ago (~40 000km) and had no issues with the engine, MPG or the car in whole. The only issue I had with was a broken driveshaft, but it was so badly rusted, it...

I was also having some issues with the rear caliper getting hot. The piston had very little rust and was moving freely, but refurbished it anyway, still was getting very hot afterwards. Before changing the hoses, two things that solved it for me were: 1) the surface where the anti-rattle springs...

Andy, mine does the same on some rare occasions. It's like a buzzing sound when turning the key. It does it very randomly and rare, on both hot and cold starts, car starts fine every time. Guess it's something with the ignition key/wiring/etc but could not be bothered to check it out...

These covers do make things worse indeed. The chrome one also looks very retro, probably will look good on some 90s car. Best and somewhat permanent solution is cut and weld a new arch, then prime and paint. New OEM panels cost a fortune. Hint: find front arches/panels in the scrapyard - front...

The two-piston calipers from Legend are the same as the ATR 6th gen, but the smaller piston will sit on top on the Accord, as they are mounted backwards on the Legend. I'm running the ATR 6th gen calipers for over an year now, and they're much much better than the original caliper. I'm using...

Creaking noise could be the balljoint of the rear arm, most likely, the one which bolts to the hub. Depends on the mileage and the abuse, of course :)

From my experience - better use an original terminal from the scrapyard instead of aftermarket items.

The saloon has really small ARB - 15 or 16mm, can't remember exactly. This is very small diamater for such heavy car in my opinion. I would recommend some Kayaba or OEM shocks and rear ARB upgrade, 20 or 22mm Progressive (available in the US for Acura TSX), you will be amazed how much it will...

Well, I wasn't bothered by the rear camber until recently noticed that rear right wheel has very much camber. Alignment showed almost 2deg. (not lowered or loaded), rear left is about 1.1-1.2, which is fine. I don't like the look of the wheels, like | \ ... and I'm not sure that new rear arms...

Well, haha, the irony - just snapped mine today, and it's the LHS (the short one). The issue is clearly rust, under the damper, the rubber is old and worn and salt, water and everything else has been trapped there. I don't have a picture, but the whole area which the damper covers is maybe half...

Well, I'm not that familiar with labour prices in the UK, but a new original clutch from Coxmotorparts is 180pounds, so the labour price seems pretty expensive to me. I guess, if you've maintained the car well, there's no rust and everything works, keep it. And talk with some other mechanics...

The whine you hear in 1st gear is 99% clutch bearing, had the same issue, replaced the bearing when did the clutch and the noise is gone. The judder you feel could be the clutch springs and/or clutch disk gone. Overall, it's just about time to change it, otherwise, it will start damaging the...

The brake disc shields were the first things to go to the trash when I bought the car two years ago. Both were already rusted and catching and squeeling, just put them out of their misery :)

Yes, it will become noisy, and you will feel that the car doesn't start that easily like before. CEL code should also show up.

I did this about a week ago, 1-5 gears from EP3 + FD 4.7, and kept the 6th from the Accord. I've already reflashed the car, but changing the gears is the best performance/acceleration upgrade you can do. You need to swap the gears, synchros, main and countershafts and final drive crownwheel...