Recent content by Reiver

Just had a similar problem with fitting a new rear disc that was locking up when tightened. Thankfully found this thread as couldn't see the problem even though disc pads were fully backed off. Even though my splash guard has been removed for years, the rust on the remaining mounting/backing...

Thanks for your time spent fixing. Unfortunately I know the pain of restoring, auditing and enhancing security after an attack.

Sorry but that's just utter rubbish from my experience. I had a dying battery for few years and between either low voltage or the battery being removed to charge, I manually locked and unlocked the car with the bonnet closed without any issues whatsoever.

The key should still work with battery disconnected since it's purely mechanical. You did try both clockwise and anticlockwise?! Checking the parts diagram there doesn't look to be a rod or cable that might get disconnected. Otherwise, since we've a popup lock button you could try the string...

I can't find it but there was a post on this or another forum about someone with same problem finding grease seeped into the tailgate motors friction pads causing it to slip and fail to open (while if it was the gas struts it should open fully and then slowly close by itself).

Just through ebay UK checking for a decent item description, brand (embossed on the rubber in photos perhaps) and/or reviews. You should reuse the metal flats from the old OEM blades for the correct length so just the rubber or silicone is needed. I'd bought 2x28"/710mm for £3.49 using one to...

If you mean the replacement rubber wiper blade - then just a standard universal 6mm or 6.5mm refill (though suspect 6mm are all just 6.5mm too) cut to size.

A bit late, but I've just done this myself for my replacement 7th gen facelift wipers and for anyone else's future attempts to be environmentally friendly by only replacing the rubber. The rubber wiper blade is cradled in individual plastic gantries/cages which are held in spring tension by two...

I had the leaking seam behind the tail lights. Diagnosis was to run water hose at full flow starting from bottom (spraying at various angles to ensure penetration at each step) to top and then along roof watching (or feeling) for when water starts entering side wells. Not sure if your car is a...

The problem was due to a split in the nearside panel seam behind the rear light and top of bumper. There had presumably been a knock in the past to the bumper which buckled a plastic offset mount near the seam. The water collected in the side well (near air vent) and then flowed over into the...

I had a leak in my tourer that filled the spare wheel well with water before I noticed it too. The problem was due to a split in the nearside panel seam behind the rear light and top of bumper. There had probably been a knock in the past to the bumper which buckled a plastic mount near the seam...

I had a leak in my tourer that filled the spare wheel well with water (pouring over from side pockets where you've taken photos) before I noticed it. The problem was due to a split in the panel seam behind rear light and top of bumper. Appears there had been a knock in the past to bumper that...

A respray is your only option. Milano red is a tricoat paint and the top clearcoat has failed to provide enough UV protection to the red basecoat. So you'd need to polish through both the clearcoat and the purple tinted midcoat to then cut the faded red basecoat. Milano pink is inevitable if...

I'm curious as to how you've positioned it. Did you hide the body fit behind the headunit or place it in the cabinet (pocket)? Then did you have to drill holes big enough to pass the cable plugs for for USB plug going out or aux plug going in respectively? Thanks.

This is my partially debadged tourer (as originally bought). Looks better without the H in my opinion.