Recent content by tunstall

Here I am again and thanks for all the advice. I've made a couple of attempts to remove the carpet like trim on the interior of the tailgate - without success. Do I need to remove plastic trim on the tailgate beforehand or can the trim actually be removed by itself? I'm being ultra cautious in...

An update on the tailgate issue. I tried your suggestion Channel Hopper and disconnected the battery as advised - no joy. Also, I came across the following on a website - fixya.com and I've quoted it as written - "With ignition on, open the tailgate using the catch inside, then turn off ignition...

No replies to my enquiry re the part number and having read through all the queries I'll buy p/n 7PK1385. Next question which is the compressor pulley?

Apologies Channel Hopper but I missed your suggestion to disconnect the battery for almost an hour. What will that do - reset the locking mechanism?

Thanks for the replies - nothing damp in the back recently, and I will check the wiring. By hinge area do you mean where wiring comes through to the tailgate? I will remove the rear panel in the tailgate (carefully) to investigate. I'm also wondering if it's something to do with the close button...

Yesterday (August 23rd) a problem with the power tailgate developed on my 2005 Series 7 Accord Tourer and it won't unlock using the key fob. I've consulted the Accord Tourer Owner's Manual and it advises to access the tailgate latch through the removable flap and to push the release lever to the...

Hello Rob - apologies for the very late reply. A local garage welded in a replacement rear arch sill for £100, and then it was sprayed etc. by another garage and that cost a further £250. So £350 in total and it looks a good deal better.

Re the fuel filter - I decided to renew the fuel filter on my Series 7 Tourer and bought the genuine Honda p/n 16010-SED-003 to do the job. Access is a bit fiddly and you need very thin fingers to remove and replace the filter, so I asked my local garage to do it for me. The mechanic's reply was...

Confusion reigns!!! As someone with an annoying squealing drive belt on my Series 7 Accord Tourer petrol engine (2.00 litre) - what is the correct part number for the belt? To try to stop the squealing I've replaced the belt twice (Longer version - 7PK1759, plus the tensioner ***embly) but still...

I've come across this and it's certainly worth considering. My Accord is a petrol engine but I ***ume the same will apply. I will take a look at the shorter belt version and let you know how I go on, and thanks for the tip.

The rusting rear wheel arch is a common problem - I had the off-side done last year and it's still looking ok. I've had my series 7 for 9 years now and I always use 5w 30 oil (Fuchs) and do my own oil/oil filter changes. I can honestly say that with only 125,000 miles I still enjoy driving it...

My series 7 Tourer failed the MOT last year on corrosion in the area of the 2 rear jacking points. I had the welding done at a very reasonable price but with this year's MOT due in October I'm planning to book the car in to have the underside checked out for any corrosion before winter sets in...

Thanks for you reply and as far as I'm aware it's the correct belt. Maybe I should try a genuine Honda item - if my bank balance will allow. I'll check out the price of a genuine item.

Thanks for you reply - no fluid loss, and no greasy hands! No I haven't tried alcohol rubbing. Re the Legacy - I had a test drive and an ok drive, but on return and as soon as I started to drive "the old girl" (the Accord) I knew which one I preferred. Also, as a Japanese import I didn't...

Ok - the saga of the squealing drive belt continues! While it's not a major issue on my 2005, series 7 Tourer, it is annoying. I initially replaced the drive belt in January 2023 (Dayco p/n 7PK1759) and it didn't stop the squealing noise. I decided to replace the drive belt tensioner to see if...