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Power tailgate problem

tunstall

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Location
Staffordshire
Car
Honda Accord Tourer
Yesterday (August 23rd) a problem with the power tailgate developed on my 2005 Series 7 Accord Tourer and it won't unlock using the key fob. I've consulted the Accord Tourer Owner's Manual and it advises to access the tailgate latch through the removable flap and to push the release lever to the right. This I've done and it has unlocked the tailgate, but using the key fob to lock and unlock the tailgate locks it but doesn't unlock it again. The manual advises to "have the vehicle checked by a Honda dealer" - which probably means a very expensive outcome!

Does anyone have any advice or suggestions please?
 
Check for broken wires in the wiring loom where it runs through the hinge area. They’re known for breaking over time.
 
Thanks for the replies - nothing damp in the back recently, and I will check the wiring. By hinge area do you mean where wiring comes through to the tailgate? I will remove the rear panel in the tailgate (carefully) to investigate. I'm also wondering if it's something to do with the close button that sits in the closing handle (upper r/h on panel). I'll remove that too and check.
As it is I can at least open the tailgate from inside and am now used to crawling in through a rear door and pressing the small lever in the latch.
 
Apologies Channel Hopper but I missed your suggestion to disconnect the battery for almost an hour. What will that do - reset the locking mechanism?
 
Yes where the loom comes through and becomes stretched and stressed over time. I’ve seen this happen multiple times now on these especially as they get older.
 
An update on the tailgate issue. I tried your suggestion Channel Hopper and disconnected the battery as advised - no joy. Also, I came across the following on a website - fixya.com and I've quoted it as written - "With ignition on, open the tailgate using the catch inside, then turn off ignition and disconnect the battery for a minute. Reconnect the battery and turn on ignition and let warning lights go through their cycle. With ignition still on shut the tailgate and Hey Presto should be good as new."
I went through this procedure 3 times - for good measure - but again no joy. So, next is to remove the interior trim panel on the tailgate - very carefully as I don't want any broken plastic clips - and check for any broken wires. I've already removed the two securing plastic inserts plus made a start on removing the closing handle/button plastic section - and I'm being ultra cautious. There will be another update.
Any further suggestions are welcome - I'll give them a go.
Thanks.
 
An update on the tailgate issue. I tried your suggestion Channel Hopper and disconnected the battery as advised - no joy. Also, I came across the following on a website - fixya.com and I've quoted it as written - "With ignition on, open the tailgate using the catch inside, then turn off ignition and disconnect the battery for a minute. Reconnect the battery and turn on ignition and let warning lights go through their cycle. With ignition still on shut the tailgate and Hey Presto should be good as new."
I went through this procedure 3 times - for good measure - but again no joy. So, next is to remove the interior trim panel on the tailgate - very carefully as I don't want any broken plastic clips - and check for any broken wires. I've already removed the two securing plastic inserts plus made a start on removing the closing handle/button plastic section - and I'm being ultra cautious. There will be another update.
Any further suggestions are welcome - I'll give them a go.
Thanks.
With the tailgate upholtery removed, you could check the connecti ng block that goes to the 'boot' button on the right hand side.

I did have issues once when trying to shut the door on something that did not fit in the boot.

Do you have any indication on the dashboard (red light/tail gate in orange) ?
 
I had similar with my 2009 8th Gen. Check your passenger window is working and the passenger side mirror folds in (if you have folding mirrors). All three rely on the PCB in the passenger door where the window switches are. Cleaning up all the contacts on that board including the tracks from the window switches fixed my power tailgate fault.
 
Here I am again and thanks for all the advice. I've made a couple of attempts to remove the carpet like trim on the interior of the tailgate - without success. Do I need to remove plastic trim on the tailgate beforehand or can the trim actually be removed by itself? I'm being ultra cautious in removing anything as I don't want to cause any damage.

On another subject - the car's MOT is due in late October and I recently had the underside of the car checked out to identify any issues. I needed a couple of new front tyres, which have been renewed, plus new front brake pads plus front lower suspension arm bushings - all replaced. The o/s sill also has excessive corrosion which will be attended to this coming week. The car is nearly 20 years old and I'm hoping I can nurse it through the MOT as it's been a damn good car and I would certainly consider buying another one - IF I can find a suitable car in well-looked after condition.

Meanwhile I would welcome any tips / advice about removing the inner tailgate trim so that I can sort out the tailgate locking/unlocking problem and start to use the tailgate again. It's just occurred to me - will the tailgate not opening be an MOT fail???
 
Hi, I have a 2004 ctdi and have just fixed my boot for about the 4th time over 3 years. This may help.
The problem for me has always been the wiring loom which is located top left looking into the boot. You need to pull off a couple of bits of trim which is straight forward and the loom is located on/behind the left hand hinge if that makes sense, there's a black cover that unclips. There are a lot of wires all together so just pull them out gently and have a look if any are broken, I've had a few broken and I simply solder them back.
You need to disconnect negative battery terminal before, if it doesn't work after connecting the terminal again undo it again and give it 30 secs and reconnect. It always has worked again for me. You could check the fuses first.
In regards to the MOT I believe the boot needs to be opened so yes it needs to be working. One year I got lucky and the guy allowed me to open it from the inside so he could check the boot but another year a different tester got really funny and refused to test it. I would definitely get it fixed.
 
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