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That’s why i said swap the complete rail. A sticking relief valve can cause high fuel pressure error too, either swap both parts to your current rail or just source a used one with parts attached.

Sounds more like a faulty fuel rail pressure sensor. Sometimes cheaper and easier to find a secondhand fuel rail with the sensor and relief valve attached and just swap that over. Doesn’t need to be a Type S, a standard 150bhp fuel rail will work.

Could be a sticking egr valve. Try temporarily blanking it at the inlet manifold side. You’ll get an error but you can clear it off with a basic code reader just for the purpose of this test. If it works then consider an egr off permanent solution, drop me a line if you want details.

For what it’s worth they’re the same anyway, only the clutch is different. Even the flywheel is the same.

Drop me a PM.

Welcome

Nope

Stick to what’s working and what is recommended by Honda. By your own admission there’s no oil usage between changes.

You can hit around 215bhp with a quality intercooler. Type S turbocharger has a different internal core and cylinder head, not to mention a stronger clutch.

Yes it’s been sorted today, sorry for the delay for those that have been unable to access the forum this last week.

Yes the CMBS relies on inputs from various sensors and systems to be able to operate correctly, you should always run a diagnostic to determine the cause and takeout any guesswork.

We achieve 232bhp peak on the Type S but wouldn’t push one any harder. Buy a faster car if you’re chasing those numbers.

common issue normally tied to blocked vanes caused by dpf blockages. I have however seen a split vac line cause it so check your vac lines from the actuator carefully to make sure they’re not pinched or split especially if it’s only happened after reassembly.

Yes but if it’s jammed open or cracked pipe then you’ll still have an issue.

Under the glovebox, you’ll need to strip a fair bit of trim back to get to it.

Stick to a C2 oil (low saps not needed). The additives in low saps are actually a little abrasive and used to help break down the ash.

I think you genuinely might be the first to ever tackle this. Well done.

I would go with refurbishment

Sounds like ecu is not waking up for some reason, and the glow plug light is indicating when that happens. Maybe a faulty ecu. If you can get a matching part number, I can clone these.

Sounds like it’s not detecting the key. Have you got a spare key? Does it do the same thing with both keys? If so then I’m guessing it has a faulty receiver unit (never changed one myself but normally they’re around the ring of the barrel on most cars of this era)