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Yep did it in my wife’s FRV a decade back. The filter is part of the in tank pump and sender ***embly. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/2h1umAYmFiu7bECQ/

You have a blocked intake and sticking egr valve. The other thing it might be is a bad fuel pressure relief valve but the fact you’ve had these errors points to the egr, I solve them regularly. Drop me a line if you want to discuss a remote option I might be able to offer.

It will be fine, although a cheaper 20l drum of any 0w30 fully synthetic will be just fine off eBay

Yes

Yes that can be causing an issue. That’s not a filter it’s a diaphragm that regulates the vacuum pressure as it’s commanding the solenoid to open and close the flap. If it’s broken then the flap isn’t working properly.. The turbo solenoid is the same part for the egr solenoid (on the facelift...

Facelift and pre facelift have a different vacuum circuit. The diaphragm is attached straight to the valve on the pre facelift but on the facelift it’s a separate part of the vac circuit. I don’t believe they’re interchangeable. Your valve is probably ok, your intake is likely blocked because of...

Thanks for circling back, I’ve never seen a power steering failure on one of these so good to know it wasn’t that.

It’s electric mate.

Pre and post facelift bumpers are interchangeable yes, but then make sure you obtain the correct grill as they’re not interchangeable. Also note fog lights and even the bonnet are not the same (subtle difference in the bonnet lines and the front leading edge as the pre facelift has a chrome trim).

Trade it in and buy a petrol if you’re not doing the miles mate.

Avoid aftermarket, they’re cheap for a reason and will just add to your problems.

Never seen that on one of these before. No shortcuts on something like this, strip the dash and get to the offending part and solve it properly mate.

When you say it keeps spinning, does it sound like the engine has lost compression? When it cut was there any smoke? Or sound like a turbo popping? Has it lost coolant? Try temporarily blanking the egr valve at the front with a small metal plate and see if it starts. Then you’ll know if that’s...

The AC is only required for a forced regen, not for normal regeneration during a regular driving cycle. I’m just speaking from years of experience with these cars, once you’ve needed just one forced regen, the time is up for that dpf.

Yep, it’s going to come back. Once you start needing even one forced regen, it’s time to solve it properly. Drop me a line if you need help.

I know you’re remote but an egr blank and remap will likely solve this. You’ve probably got a slow operating egr valve, I solve them regularly.

Definitely grey

If you can find a cheap engine and reasonable mechanic I would budget minimum £1000 all in. Too many variables to give you an accurate figure. I would suggest shopping around and getting a proper diagnosis first.

If you’re wanting to keep the car, I would argue it’s cheaper to replace the engine. They’re old cars now, not always worth the hassle of repairing.

Probably a blown turbo or possibly oil pump chain. Is your oil pressure warning light on? Without stating the obvious you really shouldn’t be starting the engine if you want to try and salvage it in some way..