Search results

84-1 means you’ve lost your calibration. Needs a HDS to run a neutralisation procedure.

EBay. You need 64.1mm > 67.1mm

remove your intake manifold and thoroughly clean it out. Check the intake flap is clean has full free range of movement.. see if it helps

I just noticed it’s an ictdi not an idtec. More likely a blocked inlet and also clogged egr and intake runner control. Are you in the UK? You may want to consider booking with me for a health check

More likely a sticking or bad turbocharger

It’s normally when your VSA modulator has lost its calibration. You’ll need a Honda HDS to carry out a neutralisation procedure. I can do this, I’ve done it from time to time

The fact you’re not getting any dtc codes with such a profound issue suggests you’ve got some error suppression going on in the remap. It may well be the egr but ideally you want it flashing back to stock and then running some diagnostics. Get in touch via PM I can probably help.

Yes they will fit just ensure you maintain correct tyre size for rolling radius. Going to 17” is 225/45/17 and 18” is 225/40/18 on the 7th gen.

I’ve tuned them on this sort of mileage, they’re absolutely fine. It just needs to be a solid base to work on.

They will work ok without coding but obviously won’t be optimised. If they’re ticking, check they’re sealed correctly. Otherwise likely bad injectors.

I’m pleased to confirm we’re back online after the forum suffered a cyber attack a week ago. Huge thanks to @alnug for giving up his weekend cleaning up the spam and working with our hosting provider to get us back online. hope you didn’t miss us too much!

is that including a donor car?

The only CL9 with factory xenon’s was the pre facelift executive model as far as I can recall. A 2006 facelift type s will have halogen bulbs. Happy to be corrected on this

Yep that’s clutch slip I’m afraid.. could be just a temporary blip so keep an eye but if it persists and gets progressively worse, time for a clutch.

It does sound electrical based on that, and a corroded earth is a very plausible likely cause.

None of these solutions work, trust me. But it’s your money..

If you really want to do a full drain then one trick is to disconnect the transcooler pipes and keep cranking the engine to expel fluid but at the same time have someone fill the gearbox so it doesn’t run dry.. when the colour coming out is as clean and red as the fluid going in then you’ve done...

Read your owners manual, even tells you how to do it in there. Very straightforward. Just drain and refill, there’s no filter to change. And remember on an auto you’re only removing around 30-40% of the oil on each change as the rest is in the torque converter.

It will be perfectly fine. In fact go for a cheaper C2 if your dpf isn’t present anymore ;)

On your auto the fuel filter is underneath the vehicle adjacent to the tank at the rear. The transmission fluid change only drains part of the fluid on every change, just drain from the drain plug on the box and refill from the fill plug. There is no filter. The capacity is close to 8l but to...