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Or a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 ASY3

Thanks for the answers [emoji3]

I just readed your thread and found some nice informations. Thanks [emoji6] As you could notice many people are using thicker oil than listed by the manufacturer ( me included ) and i would like to know what are the positive and negative sides of using an thicker oil? As example for the engine...

That's the point which would also like to know. The 5.000km interval is too long for usin an "race" focused oil?

https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-power-racing-5w30--2 Out there are many great oils but from the informations i have and laboratory ****ysis should be one of the best oils avaliable on the market. I repeat should. I know that does not make sense to use "race" oil in the daily car...

Thanks for the responses. The car is 2006 witouth DPF or cats. I would like to try the Motul 300V Power Racing 5W-30. Anyone have experience with this oil?

Hi fellas I know that was already discussed but now i was searching on the various oil manufacturers sites and on the page of Castrol i found that they recommend the 0W-20 viscosity. Can someone confirm that type of oil in this engine? Thanks in advance

Strange [emoji848] On mines the transmission cables are running under the amp and that's the reason why i recommended you to check it. This could be tricky to solve then Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

The next thing to check is the starter. The power can drop over the years and many times is enough to take it appart and give a good clean up. Check also the wires, especially the ground ones. You can also run a new ground cable directly from the negative pole of the battery to one bolt of the...

The first thing to check is the battery. Usually when cold the battery shows the signs of usage. Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Exactly. The amp is located in front of the shifter box and the transmission cables are running under the amp so i would check the conecctions on the amp. Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Is your car equipped with "Premium Sound System"? Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

As you mentioned the main problem on the Accord are the springs and dampers. A set of stronger sway bars also hepls to improve overall steering performance. I'm using stock dampers which are a custom setup with 10% harder compression and 25% slower rebound in a combination with H&R -50mm springs...

In many cases the problem is hidden in the switch but as you may noticed can't be opened. We tried the same thing on mine but it didn't work bit when we sprayed a bit of contact cleaner in the switch it started to work but lasted just few days. Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Yes, is the same problem Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

This kind of problems could be tricky to resolve. I hope that some electrical guy will answer to your question. The funny part of the problem is that only warm causes you problems. Sory bud but my knowledge about electrics stuff is poor so i can't help you on that one. Poslano z mojega...

You can try contact Michael here on the forum. From my memory he fitted the 666 or 777 one so could give you some info. Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Here you can find them for a resonable price. https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Honda/Accord/08-/Accord%20Cu3~cw3%202.2%20Diesel%20Sal~estate/Front%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20Cylinders Hope it helps Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Disconect the battery. That's it Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk

Thats strange. Did you check the battery? I know it's a stupid question because it would cause this problem even when cold but anyway. Ground cables? Bad contacts on the battery main fuse? Poslano z mojega ASUS_Z016S z uporabo Tapatalk