Search results

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/mtndewsixsixsix/37.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.300cforums.com/forums/chrysler-300-picture-media-post/23783-i-want-see-some-pics-300s-300cs-layin-frame-24s.html&h=533&w=800&sz=94&tbnid=vsUO29mygifqiM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=135&zoom=1...

Layin frame yo!

Repect for doing on your own, its the best way to learn, and fully understand the compatibly. I am suprised about the engine mount though, these engines bolt straight in a 4th gen, yet a 6th gen is able to hold a type r engine, which is mounting wise the same as a prelude version. What gear...

Yeah i done some research appears not on the 1.8, so for the OP the only manual way of adjustment is the throttle cable it self. My advice though would be leave that alone in spec deflection. 1000rpm is not a concerning issue at all, a lumpy or irratic one however is.

Yeah leave it for a week or so, see if the ECU adjusts accordingly. If not you can simply adjust it a tad.

Yes 1hr is plenty to reset the ecu, its possible to see 1800rpm on cold idle without any issues at all. Engine my not drop below 1000rpm if it got to run auxiliaries. Check for heater blower, elctric wing mirrors, seats if you got them, rear window heater etc. 1 or 2 of those be enough to load...

I should just clear this up, its not the drop that kills standard dampers its the spring rate. With "ebay coilovers" the rates are quite high, to accommodate the big drops they offer. This speeds up the the time the damper goes through the travel, and its the increase in damper oil velocity...

Obviously an alignment adjustment is needed, but as a temporary fix you can add 3-4psi to the front left. This will offset the pull to the left, and maybe cancel it out all together. This is not a solution, but it solves the pull till its fixed.

Do it Whats the worst that can happen, you get done for drink driving (sleeping), and then go karting, and get kicked off for drink driving lol. :lol: all in a days work, sounds good B)

Done! Have a cup of coffee and admire your work.

Now remove the bolts for the dash, 2 each side, 1 behind the clock and 2 down at the centre by the gear stick, take the centre concole bracket out too, as that gets in the way. Unclip the lower steering column cover and the big connector. Unclip the wiring loom arrow head clips...

Remove the clock Remove the dash cluster Remove the heat controls, keep it dangling though, as it needs disconnecting from the heat matrix later.

Remove centre console, and gear stick knob.

Had this situation come up where i had to remove 2 dashes in a 2 day window, so thought for the 2nd one id take pics of it. There didnt seem to be any DIYs on this so i thought id fill the gap. This is for any CB, but this one is a RHD CB3 UKDM NON AIRBAGGED ACCORD, but is exactly the same and...

No that fine mate, all i need to know, hatch dont fit saloons, and there is EX saloons with cream leather out there. Just need to find them! thanks!

Well need cream leather, but can you confirm if the EX or type v come in saloon form? Needing saloon seats you see.

Thanks buddy, makes the search for cream leather driver seat replacement for my dads car 50% harder lol!

Do the rear seats from a 5 door hatchback fit the 4 door saloon? Also can i confirm the Type V came in both hatchback and saloon right? I also ***ume the cream leather only was an option in Type Vs?

double check its not the filler neck seam, thats a common one. and cheaper to replace

yes same car same suspension settings etc. Is the 98 a 6th gen or a 5th gen? If its a 5th gen then it may not