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KYB is OEM I believe. Can't go wrong with Bilstein either.

Fuse no. 18 (7.5A) in driver's side fuse box is ACC signal for the audio unit without premium audio system. Fuse no. 16 (7.5A) in driver's side fuse box is ACC for the Audio/HVAC display unit. Dashboard lighting is fed from the center unit through fuse no. 6 in passenger's side fusebox so if...

Head unit itself or amp?

Ratcheting flexi spanner and turning it 1/8th of a turn at a time. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/tool-kits/halfords-advanced-16pc-flex-ratchet-spanner-set-457686.html

AFAIK on the 8th gen Xenons were an option. Headlight washers and lack of adjustment would indicate that they're indeed fitted. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/honda-europe/accord/2009_6MT/3389/electric/B__0801

Master cylinder? Depends entirely on whether or not do you fancy a 2 hour struggle laying upside down in the footwell in the current weather.

Slave cylinder is 2 bolts and a hardline, takes about 10 minutes and another 10 to bleed.

The only logical solution is to K swap the MX5 ;)

Torsion springs need to be on. Otherwise the lever is way too short for a 200n spring - you could possibly substitute with a (much) stronger one or even two but that's anyone's guess. Balljonts were NitroLift ones from SGS, nuts and washers just generic parts store special...

P2R's reply to my email... A bit funny how it doesn't work on the K24Z3 but works on the Z7 even though cylinder head is the same Honda P/N and the coolant passage on the RSP and RBC is the same?

@btjtaylor Update on the situation, noticed the coolant level ever so slightly dropping over time so I pulled the manifold to see if it's going anywhere it shouldn't be going... And it's going inside cylinder #4. I'm gonna have to send a very angry email to P2R because their website claims...

Just do it once and do it right... 600, 1200, 2000, 4000grit wet sanding and compound polish + wax to seal.

Correct, thermal gasket only. It did weep coolant at first but admittedly I torqued the manifold by feel - too lazy to drive an hour both ways to borrow a torque wrench off a friend. Round two with a bit more oomph seems to have helped. I'll try and design a bracket for the engine mount...

A little update on the matter: Top left stud *needs* removing, if you grind it down like I did you won't have enough left to put a nut on it with the manifold in place. Lesson #1. Bottom left bolt is an absolute nightmare fuel for access - I had no luck trying to tighten it, socket is no good...

2.4 twin piston fronts should be a bolt on upgrade no? You'll need to get new brackets and larger disks anyway so may as well go with the 320mm option.

Nice, thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to plumb the manifold to the airbox before swapping it out.

Manifold to head, I have the P2R fuel rail spacers already.

Can you reuse the stock bolts holding the injector base in place to secure the manifold or do you need longer ones/studs? I bought the TB adapter and thermal gasket separately as I had all the other bits laying around so that's the only thing I'm missing.

Page 22-339 in the workshop manual has a diagram Passengers side Drivers side

Installed a HID retrofit kit in mine, no issues with the cutoff or beam pattern at all. Housings already have the mounting points for ballasts so it's plug and play with some extra zip ties or velcro needed to tidy up the wiring. Technically illegal but the bulb isn't visible so if the beam...