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Had similar symptoms on a nissan note 1.5 dci. Started having starting issues, sometimes engine would turn over and start and other times it wouldn't. Changed the car battery for a new one, no difference. Changed the key battery and it seemed to help for a while but eventually the car wouldn't...

A few older threads on this forum about this if you search google for "mk7 accord headlight bulbs keep blowing". Unfortunately a few possible causes too.

What bulbs are you using?

100w may be too much but I'm not sure. Have a look on here for them, not too pricey either: https://www.parts-honda.uk/

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Wear indicator goes on the inside.

I'll be a happy man if it's just tyres, fingers crossed!

Thought about that but there'd be no guarantee of the condition of a used one. Have done that before and may still fall back on it if I run into problems. No not sure now after reading up on it. Jacked the front wheels up yesterday to check for signs but there was no noise when spinning the...

It looks like it.. Looks like there are 4 screws to remove, one behind that panel and 3 along the bottom: https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/ACCORD-TOURER/2006/22-EXECUTIVE/UPHOLSTERY/SIDE-LINING/17SED601/B__3930/5/698

Started getting a humming, drone type sound above 40mph from the front right wheel. I think it's the wheel bearing failing, so going to buy one of these: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/17902128 Not much more than just the bearing itself but means I don't have to remove the old bearing from the...

I put some silicone sealant under mine when I noticed them lifting. This is showing the ones for my year, not sure what yours is: https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/ACCORD/2010/22-ES-GT/BODY-PARTS/FRONT-WINDSHIELD/17TL1A01/B__5200/6/3841

I have had this issue on rare occasions if I push the nozzle in too far, so I always keep hold of the nozzle and don't push it in all the way.

I can't hear any issues there, what noise do you think you're hearing, can you describe it? You should hear my turbo whistle, very worrying.

You'll probably find a video on it or similar, found this one although tis a newer model:

Very commendable, mine is @ 192k but hoping it will surpass 400k before they take it away and make me go electric. Not opposed to electric, just affordability for me.

So, bought a foseal scanner...

Looks like brute force and a reciprocating saw

I applied some grease to the actuator, where it moves up into the body. The car is running as it should and revving freely but the eml light is still on. Will disconnecting the battery for an hour reset this or do I need a better scan tool that can clear the fault codes?

Just had the engine light come on and limp mode on the way home. Using a cheap obd2 scanner I'm getting codes P00AF and U0029. Don't have a dpf, could the vanes still be sooted up? Actuator arm seems to move freely. Any ideas anyone? Is it still okay to drive or could I knacker the whole engine?