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My local garage doesn't fit supplied parts anymore as he says too many supplied the wrong parts. Any garage could fit them, look at reviews for them around you and then call them and ask if they'll do it and for how much? Be sure they will fit though.

Hi Rod, I think you'd get away with them, but they'd need low profile tires which would make the ride more uncomfortable. I'd also fit narrower tyres ie: 225/40/r19 . The recommended offset on an 8j 19 inch wheel is 45, so with the 37 on yours it gives you 8mm less to the arch. The extra half...

I use the jacking points normally, I use to put a tennis ball on top of the jack so as not to damage the paint. Bought a 3 tonne jack recently that has a rubber cover over the contact point.

Some say that the heater matrix could be the problem and it's a big job changing them, so flushing it out might solve the issue. https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/2008-accord-no-heat-on-driver-side-only.299873/

The pistons on the 8th gen I have don't require winding in. To remove the seized piston , once the calliper is free of the disc, I just kept pushing the brake pedal down, then checking how far it had moved out each push.

Some, that see the state of corrosion immediately go for buying a new calliper. Which is really expensive. A refurb kit is a fraction of the cost and will rectify the problem. Already done one of the rear and a front brake overhaul and no problems since.

2008 2.2 I-DTEC dimensions here: BOOT Length of boot floor - back row of seats folded down or removed 1930mm Length of boot floor - back row of seats upright 1079mm Vertical height of boot opening 713mm Boot sill height to floor of car 0mm Boot sill height to ground 596mm Width of boot floor at...

Mine was for the 8th gen but this looks like the 7th gen and is the same size anyway: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332145546340?hash=item4d556ad464:g:jRkAAOSwcKZfabAd

Just has this on mine and ended up fitting a new piston and seal. The old piston seemed fine but the seal itself had corrosion under and inside it where it fits the calliper. The seal has a steel band moulded into it which was rusted onto the calliper. It has stopped the brake binding and the...

Yeh, well, not sure I agree with that theory, but each to there own eh! Stripped it down yesterday, fitted new piston and seals and all good now, no warm wheel anymore.

You might find it on here: https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars or here when it's working: https://hondaspareparts.co.uk/

Don't see the logic in that, maybe you can explain...

I forced the piston back with a G-clamp, it moved quite easily compared to some seized ones I've worked on, so ***umed it wasn't the piston seized. But after cleaning and greasing the glide pins and brake pads I'm back to the piston. Going to order this kit before starting, in case the piston is...

Front offside brake binding heavily, wheel is getting warm. Had the calliper off the disk today and cleaned and greased the pads where they contact the calliper. It made no difference so calliper service kit is next on the agenda. Had the same issue on the rear and ***ume it is common on most cars.

do you do bmw remaps?

This was the state of mine before rectifying it:

a small stone lodged in there probably, may just come out or try braking in forward and reverse a few times.

I would check brake pads first

You should be able to source these parts on ebay a lot cheaper

I used MTF-3 when I did mine. You'll need new washers too.