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The NGKs I use on the 6th Gen are preset.

It will, as I said I struggled down that path a few years back. You'll be regretting getting that grinder out when you see how easy it is with penetrating oil and the biggest pliers/vice grips you can get your hands on lol. It will still take a mega twist to get it off. Like you, I was...

I suppose if you pull the main-beam it might make sense for it to illuminate headlights and beam. Logically, if you need main beam then headlight beam would be needed or at least 'useful' to have too.

Ahh...sounds like the hammer/socket is the only answer without the option to press it. You could try a blowtorch beforehand, I know it expands the metal but it might also crack any corrosion that's lurking.

Is there still some wire then in the middle or is the wire out and its the collar thats left? Aye better with a hammer (metal) IMO, if we mean a mallet being made of rubber, hide or wood then sometimes they absorb the shock, but watch the socket doesn't shatter so get some specs on.

Ahh ok that should do for getting the one off the car. So this one you have ground down, have you tried Stuarts suggestion of a socket and big hammer? I'm guess the screwdriver is just jamming inside the cable rather then pressing on the collar.

post #2 - vice grips and penetrating oil, or do you mean you don't have them either? Have you got channel locks/ pipe pliers they'll be useful too. Should have said that I went through all that grief, hence the pic. I had mallets and chisels trying to bang it out but the grips, oil and an...

Have you got a G-clamp you can hook round it in someway to use a press?

I replaced that caliper as it was seized at the lever arm (the bit the cable pulls on) and I was at it for ages trying to get it out. This is how a seized one looks

Is that the replacement calipers, cable cut I presume? Yeah get rid of that square spring clip thing. The barrel collar is not tapered from memory or threaded, its just stuck with crud and maybe some corrosion. You need to try and clean around the collar - wire brush and brake cleaner etc...

I heard before about water ingress via that rear light cluster. I think they just silicone sealed it, but can't remember if someone suggested a particular kind of silicone that didn't damage paint/bodywork. I think it was a 'marine grade' silicone but don't quote me on that, maybe someone else...

Battery is dead/dying in my opinion. Alternator likely to be on its way out. Buy a new battery, then we can see if it resolves itself, or else at least some further investigation into the alternator, pulley, belt etc...

Nice one...let us know how you get on. Remember the battery straight off the charger could show a slight overcharge or bang on the 12.6 - you can't necessarily trust this, straight off the charger!

Yeah I've read a weak battery causes the alternator to work harder and in the same statement that simply jumping a car, then driving it in the sole hope to charge the battery wears the alternator out quicker. I guess in a nutshell the point was the alternator is only there to maintain system...

No probs, its not that complicated after you have done it once. You are just in an unusual situation where you could have a dodgy battery (based on age) and a dodgy alternator at the same time. As the other guys have said, buying a new battery will be a wise move due to its age. I don't think...

ok, let the battery charge overnight and all day tomorrow. Set your meter to 20v DC, ensure the leads are in (red)VOLT and (black)COM. Touch the red lead to POSITIVE battery post, black lead to NEGATIVE battery post. Tomorrow night take it off the charger take an immediate reading, it will...

Is it possible the lock mechanism in the engine bay is gummed up? I use white lithium spray grease around the mechanism, trying to identify the pivot points especially. If so you might find the cable moves freely and pops the bonnet as before. I've not had this problem, its just a guess on my...

I wouldn't trust the reading the at moment because we don't know what state it is in, especially just off a charger. It might read fine about 12.6 and it might very well be fine but that is just one (of three) checks we need to do. By all means take a reading tonight, and then again in the...

This is the meter I have, it can also measure temperature with a separate lead (supplied) which can be useful to push down your vents to measure aircon performance - that should operate about 5°C I believe. When checking resistance of my HT Leads I had to measure it near 20°C to get an accurate...

nice quote from AndyB1976 lol :lol: Can you get a meter at all, that will virtually pinpoint your problem removing guesswork and even worse, internet guesswork lol