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MAP sensor. EVR / IMRC would throw a fault (pressure low / high or stuck IMRC). MAP and the engine doesn't know there's a problem.

You'll need to check the part numbers: Here's the premium sound system for an Accord 2.0 petrol: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__1610&block_03=440

Ok, so that means that the car doesn't know there's a problem. When you say, it's like the turbo stops, do you mean that the power flattens out? i.e. you have the turbo from about 1500RPM and consistent pull and then a stop at 2.5-3K RPM?

Oh and I presume you used a genuine fuel filter?

EVR / IMRC - sticky vanes? Any lights on the dash?

Here's short PDF from a place in the US. It shows the relevant "tricks" http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17448.pdf

Hi Ken, Welcome along! :) When you say a hiccup, what do you mean? Is there a delay in acceleration? Does it idle roughly? How do you feel the hiccup?

Yep, pre and post are the same it's the fuel types that are different.

Nope, the petrol and diesel head-units are different. I recommend that you search out a 2.0 litre EX model, as this will have the premium system without the sat-nav.

Takes about 1.5 hours to do as a DIY. Next time I do a car, I'll make a DIY for it.

The trick to this is to: 1. Jack the car up and get on axle stands. 2. Loosen the mid-engine mounts on the subfame 3. Support the rear of the subframe with a jack 4. Remove rear-subframe bolts 5. Lower the rear of the subframe about 1.5-2 inches. 6. Remove the front bracket bolt 7. Use a...

Brilliant news! As said the gearbox is pretty solid. Enjoy the driving... :D

If it's the DMF, you'll get the vibrations by revving the engine at idle as well. Get upto 55-70mph, make sure the road is clear around you, dip the clutch (coast), does the vibrations drop off? Yes, then it's probably driveshaft.

Best brakes to buy? Personally, I use OEM as they don't seem to squeal as much as after market.

150K miles - I doubt it. You'd benefit from just replacing the shocks alone! I recommend that you budget in new shocks for this project.

If you had okay in the shafts you would tend to get vibrations when accelerating or under load. Clunking could be the ARB bushes. To check i would disconnect the droplinks and tie up the bar. Reason being is driveshafts are not cheap and i would want to be sure

It could be the drive shaft but I'm going with the ARB bushes on the front were these done? If it's the drive shaft you'd get a vibration at higher speeds.

Hmmm.... I've never noticed these before. I've certainly heard the timing chain rattle. I need to listen closer to see if I can detect it.

Ah, I'm gonna add in my lowerer Tourer on H&R... :) Drops like this (I am so bad at photography)

At 80K miles, I'd be checking out the following: 1. The sparks need to be done (if they weren't done previously). They due every 75K miles or 8 years. 2. Inspect the drive-belt for odd wear/stretching 3. Check the shocks, ARB bushes, compliance bushes, droplinks 4. Inspect the Power Steering...