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Hiccup at the acceleration(nearly max/radical push)

K

KenZ

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Location
Central Europe
Car
Accord Ctdi (CN1)
Hello, this is my first time to join such a community in the internet, I don't really know what to start up here, but,,

I would like to have some advice for troubleshooting on the problem on my car.

My car is Honda Accord 2006 Ctdi 7gen, odd; 220000km.
It is with Racechip Ultimate which you can casually find on ebay.

I bought this car as secondhand when it has odd; 180000km.
Not sure but maybe since I got Racechip on my car, it got hiccup time to time.

As you see, 90% of the error comes up when I push a radical acceleration like when I go in the highway(So that, Gear was with gear1/3, 10-60km/h range as I can rememeber now). Only 1time it happened on the mid of highway(So that, Gear was with gear5, around 140km/h).

The hiccup is HUGE, when ti happens mostly my head is gone forward like 50cm. I guess at these moment, the motor doesn't work.
My reflexes always do break and clutch, after 1,2 sec clutch connected, hiccup is always gone.
I am trying but I can not check if rpm shaking or not, it always happens all of the sudden.
Only one time, when the hiccup happened I kept pushing acceleration, the car is stopped on the road with motor error code which is impossible to delete just battery connect/disconnect.(Fortunately I read some info in the internet about the ECU reset, I did it and the car revived.)



not kn



gear1/3/4/5 around km/h
 
Hi Ken,

Welcome along! :)

When you say a hiccup, what do you mean? Is there a delay in acceleration? Does it idle roughly? How do you feel the hiccup?
 
(Sorry, I was editting my question, now I can not edit/save any more. I am going to replay one by one for this time.)


Hello, this is my first time to join such a community in the internet, I don't really know what to start up here, but,,

I would like to have some advice for troubleshooting on the problem on my car.

My car is Honda Accord 2006 Ctdi 7gen, odd; 220000km.
It is with Racechip Ultimate which you can casually find on ebay.

I bought this car as secondhand when it has odd; 180000km.
Not sure but maybe since I got Racechip on my car, it got hiccup time to time.

As you see in the subject, 90% of the error comes up when I push a radical acceleration like when I go in the highway(So that, Gear was with gear1/3, 10-60km/h range as I can rememeber now). Only 1time it happened on the mid of highway(So that, Gear was with gear5, around 140km/h).

The hiccup is HUGE, when it happens mostly my head is gone clase to the windshield. I guess at these moment, the motor doesn't work somehow.

My reflexes always makes me do break and disconnect/connect the clutch, hiccup is always gone immediately.
I am trying but I can not really check if rpm shaking or not, it always happens all of a sudden.
Only one time, when the hiccup happened I kept pushing acceleration, the car is stopped on the road with motor error code which is impossible to delete just battery disconnect/connect.(Fortunately I read some info in the internet about the ECU reset, I did it and the car revived.)


What I did till today,,,,
1. Change filter(air, fuel, oil)
2. Intensive wash the pump and injection line, using LiquiMori diesel wash
3. Take off the EGR, check inside and wash.
4. MAF change with secondhand from ebay.
5. Change throttle valve
6. Clean AMF sensor
7. Oil change
8. ECU reset by myself
9. ECU update by dealer

What I am suspect for now,,,
1. Solenoids
2. MAF/AMF broken
3. Chip mod box is low quality, making a mess in the balance of air+fuel
4. Fuel pump
5. Injection

I would like to appreciate your advice, Thanks.

KenZ
 
Is it a box that plugs into your fuel rail?
 
jayok said:
Hi Ken,

Welcome along! :)

When you say a hiccup, what do you mean? Is there a delay in acceleration? Does it idle roughly? How do you feel the hiccup?
Click to expand...
Hello jayok, thanks for your help.

Hiccup is huge, my head is gone close to the windshield, I can not call it "viberating" or "shaking" and "delay in accelation", more like,,, "stop, momentally", somebody push the break suddenly.
When the car stay idle, it sounds normal, stable.

If you do disconnect/connect the clutch, imediately back to normal.

Rgds.
 
F6HAD said:
Is it a box that plugs into your fuel rail?
Click to expand...
Hello, F6HAD.
Happy to talk with you.

Yes, exactly, plug to common rail pressure sensor.
I think the box intentinally lying and feedbacking to the computer, saying "low pressure, give me more pressure".

Racechip looks very much brand from Germany, cost really high,,, but now looks like,,,,

Rgds.
 
Jon_G said:
Try removing the Racechip Ultimate to see if the problem corrects itself.
Click to expand...
Yes, Jon.

I do changing very slowly slowly.
My chip box has notch to adjust the power.
I start from Max, now normal, I will put it down to low.
Then I will test without.

Very much pain without,, makes me feel waste of money....

Rgds.
 
Hello,

I saw another people having the same problem.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1019-i-cdti-engine-cuts-out-when-accelareting/

Now I am thinking it's maybe fuel filter.
I changed it 1year ago, ran with it for 10000km or less.
It's a generic one named Nipparts.
I saw some difference in structure between genuine(before) and Nipparts(after).

With the genuine one, the ex-owner ran 15000km with this, when I had a engine cut-out on the highway(5gear, 140km/h)
With the new Nipparts, I have the cut-out from the 1week, mostly I push a hard acceleration.(with gear1/3, 10-60km/h range)

Do you guys think that much different depending on genuine/non-genuine???

Rgds.
 
Take it off before it breaks your car. Pushing the fuel pressure up alone is a good way to break your car.

And yes I've seen this before where crude devices like this cause permanent engine damage.

If you want a proper tuning solution talk to me or any quality tuning company but avoid this crap.
 
If it simply connects to the rail pressure sensor then it's just a bunch of resistors and a selector switch.... possibly around £3 worth of components? It can't possibly have cost much!

Why didn't you remove it as soon as the car started playing up?
 
F6HAD said:
Take it off before it breaks your car. Pushing the fuel pressure up alone is a good way to break your car.

And yes I've seen this before where crude devices like this cause permanent engine damage.

If you want a proper tuning solution talk to me or any quality tuning company but avoid this *****.
Click to expand...

Jon_G said:
If it simply connects to the rail pressure sensor then it's just a bunch of resistors and a selector switch.... possibly around £3 worth of components? It can't possibly have cost much!

Why didn't you remove it as soon as the car started playing up?
Click to expand...
Cheers for your advice, Fahad and Jon.
I understand about the chiptuning box.
I will drop it off.

What do you think about the difference in fuel filter??
Have you seen how much does it make difference??

http://typeaccord.co...n-accelareting/
As I see in this, he had exactly the same symptom.
Maybe multipule causes?

And Fahad,, do you have any possibilities to have your tuning operation around Germany??

Rgds.
 
Yes I can offer a file only service and have tuned many cars outside the uk this way. Drop me a line for details
 
F6HAD said:
Yes I can offer a file only service and have tuned many cars outside the uk this way. Drop me a line for details
Click to expand...
Ok,,,

Just for my well understanding,,,
It means I need to take this file to some garage to install in onto my car, isn't it?
And I can not update ECU at the dealer, right?
And do you have several type of files, such as Performance type and Economy drive type and so on??

To tell you straight,,,
I wish the performance only, I don't really care with cost and risk(just no wish to waste the money for nothing like this tuning box), and I don't like slow moving car, because I start my ride from motorcycle or maybe my driving is bad,,, most of the cars are too slow to convince myself.
This car has 220000km already, I can do many kind of tests on this, that's the reason I bouht it from high millege.
I want to remember my reason why I stay in Germany, auto/soccer/money, man.

What info should I pass you?? VIN?

Rgds.
 
No you can flash yourself with a flash tool from eBay, and laptop.

You need to remove the box first and see if it solves the problem. If it doesn't, then you need to work on solving the problem before tuning it.
 
F6HAD said:
No you can flash yourself with a flash tool from eBay, and laptop.

You need to remove the box first and see if it solves the problem. If it doesn't, then you need to work on solving the problem before tuning it.
Click to expand...
Sorry for my late reply, work work work.
Thank you so much for your kindness, Fahad and mates.

I dropped off the tuning box and will change the present generic filter with brand new Honda genuine, then will monitor if the error is up again or not.
At the same time my mind is drifting and considering buying one more petrol Accord, type-S(2.4, 190PS) or Type-R(Only in Japan, exactly named "Euro R", 2.0 with 220PS), then I will see which one makes me happiest. (I heard from some people, 2.0 petrol in Europe; 150PS is not faster than Ctdi. )

Even just thinking makes me exciting.
Rgds.
 
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