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I think it's best to go high in first, but then don't rush the change from first to second. Two separate stages, first to neutral, then neutral to second. Otherwise, as well as struggling to get out of first, second might not engage at all, and the revs go through the roof but the car slows to...

I think I remember someone from a tyre centre telling me once that if you use the goo you can't repair the puncture afterwards either.

Every 6 months. My mileage is lower than yours but short journeys are worse for the oil than long ones.

As long as you're moving at exactly 88mph.

The downside is the thirst compared to the diesel.

Lazy slave cylinder possibly.

It's this one that you need https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk/collections/honda-cr-z-2011-2016/products/genuine-honda-accord-petrol-fuel-filter-2008-2015

Yes that's the one.

I use Lubech 0W 20 in mine, nice easy cold starts, and SN classification so a better performing oil.

Welcome.

Good luck sorting it, I think you'll find one.

Do you mean the lambda sensor ? Has it got a blue wire ?

Welcome back Tony. When I did mine I didn't use a cone, I used a Blueprint boot which was neoprene so better than the cheap rubber ones, but still less than half the price of Honda. Also needed circlip pliers and CV boot pliers. And plenty of kitchen roll as it was messy getting rid of the old...

Welcome to TA.

The front bearing swap looks like a professional job to me so I've always thought if I ever need to do this I'll buy a second hand knuckle off eBay and fit that instead.

My local Honda dealer will fit them on the basis the 12 month warranty only applies to the work done but not the parts.

I bought genuine Honda second hand from eBay. If you're choosy you can get decent one. Might be worth getting a garage to diagnose the fault first though if you're not sure it's definitely that.

On paper the 8th Gen 2.4 at 201 hp is only 11 hp more than the 7th Gen but that's only a small part of the story. It's a far punchier and responsive engine, and combined with earlier VTEC engagement, a shorter ratio gearbox box, wider tyres, much better brakes and improved handling generally...

I'm finding it a bit unsettling but at the same time can't be bothered messing about with it. I might just cover it up with Blu tack or something for now. Looks like the fault's at the transmitter end so it'll resolve if and when Alpine or whoever fixes it.

If it was red it might have been Red Line MTL. Expensive stuff from the USA but good. Looks like it's been changed before which is the main thing.