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What usually happens is a combination of : Corroded piston/ Corrosion behind seal/dust bellows that pushes the rubber out of the groove increasing friction and the consequent retraction of piston is poor. Is the piston corroded externally?

The boot can be intact and there will still be corrosion behind the boot, its only a dust boot not a water or oil proof seal. The only way you will know is by stripping the caliper and inspecting it and possibly rebuilding it.

If its totally seized the best way is to fit a grease nipple to where the brake hose attaches and pump the piston out with a grease gun. You will need to clean it anyway, usually the problem is corrosion behind the seal in the caliper body, once the piston is out, pop the seal and dust boot out...

I can't make out anything on that pic, it looks like an Andy Warhol painting.

I have been way to busy to get on top of this at the moment, I have intermittent aircon, it seems to function well on Auto and cools the car OK with just me and an ambient temp of 17-19, but if switched from auto to manual control the instant you press ac on the dual temp displays on the screen...

Can you post the instruction on how to check the wiring for the module please?

Mine is also an 8th Gen, I'll have a look when I get a chance to get under the car.

This is a good thread, MY AC stopped working this week as well, I took it to an AC specialist and he ran it through a Waeco AC system, which pressure tested it and removed all the old R134a and oil. pressure and vacuum tested it and then refilled it with 475g of gas and 27ml of oil. When you...

You might need to invest or find a mechanic with a Steelman chassis ear set. they can be bought cheaply for the basic ones but wireless cordless are more expensive.

I would say the closest to the spec would be Motul Gear 300 75w-80, Not sure of the the limited slip version LS which you have. The Honda spec is old MTF-7289 so there are probably better alternatives out there but as you have found out it is not easy to work out.

Its not as simple as Tourer = Tophat drum in disc and Saloon = disc , Some tourers have disc only handbrake and some saloons have drum/disc setups. Look at this saloon EPG it has drum and disc rear brakes. https://www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catalog/browse/catalog/hondacars/modelid/3398...

ATE is a brake manufacturer, link here https://www.ate-brakes.com/ The hammerhead pads are these ones, https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-original-brake-pads/ for obvious reasons. The twin piston ones are Nissin manufacture not ATE, I don't know which models had them but I do...

ATS 2.2 IDTEC have them. not sure about others, lots of them had the ATE hammer head type.

Look at this website: https://towcar.info/type.php

I highly recommend the Problem Solving Bushes for the front bushing replacement, They are a very easy fit and made a big difference in the handling of my 7th gen when I had it. They also are not a huge price, I would take the opportunity to use some antiseize on the bolts that secure them to the...

They look good and clean, what did you use to clean them?

My 13 ATS doesn't have these features either, TBH I don't miss them. Time delay switches can be awful things to repair if they go wrong.

The most common cause in my experience is the caliper carrier rusting and causing undue friction to the pad ends preventing them from returning as the pistons retract. In fact my rear carrier did this just recently, there are stainless steel clips that hold the pads in the carrier, underneath...

The mounts are all the same for the diesels, That part is expensive but its unlikely to need to need replacement again. You could try second hand parts but I don't think they will be much better, my theory is the extra torque of the N22B2 engine just stresses them a bit more leading to early...

My 13 ATS does the same, I believe it to be engine mounts, specifically the rear one.