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Just checking, maybe a bit silly of me, but the bulb only works inserted in the right way, regarding the poles. If it doesn't work turn the bulb around and try again. But you probably already know that.

Supposedly the body spacers shape produces air breakup and turbulence that yields greater fuel burn efficiency and power gains.

Check here: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/778-front-jacking-points/

Very stubborn I am, Yoda style. Here's my testing just an hour ago. So they say it can be a faulty EVR (green in the picture) and not the IMRC solenoid (seen yellow). Now, with the error showing up in the dashboard, at idle, the valve is open (should be closed) , I disconnected the red tube and...

Well, they will want to test if it's a problem related to the EVR valve (yes, EVR), the one that controls the vacuum to the IMRC. Will leave the car tomorrow with them again, to see if they can get that part out of other Accord i-ctdi and test it in my car.

Only if they give me one still under warranty.

And another video with the P2004 error ON and then OFF. In the first part of the video, the P2004 error is detected by Scangauge II. When the lights go out in the garage, I clear the error and then the IMRC starts to work properly (moving)

Yesterday money on my way to work it lighted up and I didn't clear the error. In the afternoon, returning home, star the car and after a few seconds the light goes out. Today morning is on again. Arrrrhhhhhhgggggggg

Light on again. Thursday is going to Honda. Intermittent issues drives me crazy.

Yep, the intercooler makes the air cooler and the turbo makes it denser and faster. That's more or less the result we get in non aspirated cars with aftermarket induction kits.

I've read a lot about diesel air induction, and the long or short aftermarket kits are mostly useless. The turbo and the intercooler do all the job already.

That's a good question. In normal aspirated cars (non-turbos) the short ram air filters give more power at low revs and are less efficient at high revs. A good solution for Hondas use to be the AEM long rams, because they benefited the vtec rpm range. In the diesel, I think the short or the long...

I still didn't gave up, but I would do it just for the sound, as long the performance didn't change. But even the sound is bit disappointing. Either way, these carbon fiber boxes have good possibilities in fitting the tight space: http://www.bmcairfilter.it/carbon-dynamic-airbox_prd_pr3_4_1.aspx

That's too much work, don't bother.

Sorry, Adam, could you please be more specific about the colors of the wires to crimp to? For example, in the third picture you say to crimp to the green, wire, but I see the yellow with green stripe, but there's also a green one there. And in my case, it's all the other way round, because of...

Top work! Great. One more DIY for me to do. Thanks!

Oh I see, it must be just a matter of finding the right wires!

I suppose he removed the door card and passed the wires through the rubber tube on the door, into the inside of the car. And that's a clever and easy way to do it! Got me thinking.

There are lots of these on ebay. Not model specific, but the result is the same. It's just a matter of finding the right sizes. I have similar to these in the front (they come with adapters)...

It seems the diesel particulate filter (or DPF).