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Like I said, after driving both I couldn't feel anything thing in it compared to a 2.0 though. The lower rev limit on the 2.3 sucks for people like me who like a bit of fast progress everynow and then, although my other 6G has a H22 so that fulfills my boyracer mood nicely. :D

Nevermind, managed it. Hopefully this helps! @Andy, is it me or does your rear doorcard appear to have no speaker cutout?

E-mail should be on its way now. If you don't mind, could you share the pictures here for the forum? I would do it myself but mobile internet is rubbish for uploading. Edit: Says it failed due to the 02 servers rejecting it. Do you have another email address?

I'm gonna be confident and say it's almost 100% rust on the bulkhead. Very common issue on 6G's (I've repaired at least 50 now, including my two!) especially as they get older. Water runs behind the strut tops and pools up where the inner arch joins the bulkhead, and eventually the rust eats...

S-type? Doesn't exist on the 6G. S-types are 7Gs. If you mean a Sport, they were very popular in 1.8 guises (especially the facelift) but 2.0's were sold albeit in very low numbers. @Stephen - No they were 2.3's from the get go, as that was a major selling point of the "prestige" trim level...

Yep, they were exclusively a 2.3 when launched...All for about 6 months until consumers started complaining about the poor fuel consumption so Honda introduced the 2.0 into the lineup, even though there is no difference in economy. I have a 2.0 Type-V as my daily driver and it's brilliant...

If you ever this side of the pond, I'll happily chuck you the keys to mine! She's on almost 270k miles now but still as tight as a drum!

I have a few 6G's, 2 of which are driven. My H22'd 6G is on a non-OEM size of 215/45/16 running Advan Neova AD08's. 35p.s.i at the front and 32p.s.i at the rear seems the optimun balance between grip and the rate at which the tyre wears, as running them at 30p.s.i provides slightly better grip...

No they are different. Base models and EXECs run the same springs and dampers, but Sports and Type R's use the same shocks. However the Sports run a softer spring and higher ride height. The Type-V runs a completely bespoke setup, which is incredibly softly damped, great for comfort but they...

To the OP, are you still wanting a guide for this? If so I can write you one up later tonight if you wish. It's actually very easy on these cars providing you have the right tools, and can be done in 30-60 minutes. The hardest part is getting the auxillary belt off as it's very close the the...

Is the first few centimetres of travel quite loose/very light? Usually, one of the rear calipers will seize meaning the cable has slack and so the handbrake pull won't sit fully down and so the light comes on. As you've had new calipers though, I would doubt this is your issue. However, it...

Hello! The leak could be from anywhere, but providing it is definetely gearbox related, there is only 4 places it could leak from. The drive seals, input shaft seals, shifter mechanism and the ajoining cases. If you are 100% sure it is the gearbox and that the leak is coming from the top, I...

Regular servicing and she'll be fine! Won't hurt to keep an eye on the common issues though, rear brakepipes, bulkhead rot etc. I have another Accord as my daily driver. She's on 244k now (2.0l F20B6) and recently flew through the test with no advisories. All it's ever needed is consumables and...

The H22's can sometimes get better MPG than the SOHCs! I have a H22A7 swapped into my CH7, and am getting about 2-3mpg average more than I did with the F20B6, and that's with my non-standard H22. I can only imagine it's less effort for the engine to pull all the weight around, as the Accords are...

Are either of the front footwells wet, or does the car steam up quickly? 6th gens have a common issue of rain water eating rust holes through the firewall where the strut tops are. Water gets in, causes condensation to get onto the ECU and causes the non starting. Very common problem...

Sounds like it is pinking (AKA pre-detonating) to me, especially if it is doing it under load. If an engine had a genuine knock from either the bottom end, cylinder head or both, you would hear it even when just revving the engine, with the knock getting faster as the RPM's climb. My advice...

Correct. The weight is dependent on the climate too. 5W/30 is recommended for winter as due to it's thinner nature, it warms up quicker during cold driving, thus helping warm oil get around to stop any premature wear. 10W/40 is then recommended for summer as it doesn't go too thin during hot...

Could you clarify on what you mean by "key only" entry system please? I might just be having a brain fart, but I can't seem to comprehend what you mean by that. As for your issue, it's not something I've come across after working on 6th gens over the years. However, it might be worth looking...

Non-ATR's have the trim clipped in place.

6G does indeed have a safety trip on the auto cycle. :)