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Wear indicator goes on the inside.

I'll be a happy man if it's just tyres, fingers crossed!

Thought about that but there'd be no guarantee of the condition of a used one. Have done that before and may still fall back on it if I run into problems. No not sure now after reading up on it. Jacked the front wheels up yesterday to check for signs but there was no noise when spinning the...

It looks like it.. Looks like there are 4 screws to remove, one behind that panel and 3 along the bottom: https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/ACCORD-TOURER/2006/22-EXECUTIVE/UPHOLSTERY/SIDE-LINING/17SED601/B__3930/5/698

Started getting a humming, drone type sound above 40mph from the front right wheel. I think it's the wheel bearing failing, so going to buy one of these: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/gsp/17902128 Not much more than just the bearing itself but means I don't have to remove the old bearing from the...

I put some silicone sealant under mine when I noticed them lifting. This is showing the ones for my year, not sure what yours is: https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/ACCORD/2010/22-ES-GT/BODY-PARTS/FRONT-WINDSHIELD/17TL1A01/B__5200/6/3841

I have had this issue on rare occasions if I push the nozzle in too far, so I always keep hold of the nozzle and don't push it in all the way.

I can't hear any issues there, what noise do you think you're hearing, can you describe it? You should hear my turbo whistle, very worrying.

You'll probably find a video on it or similar, found this one although tis a newer model:

Very commendable, mine is @ 192k but hoping it will surpass 400k before they take it away and make me go electric. Not opposed to electric, just affordability for me.

So, bought a foseal scanner...

Looks like brute force and a reciprocating saw

I applied some grease to the actuator, where it moves up into the body. The car is running as it should and revving freely but the eml light is still on. Will disconnecting the battery for an hour reset this or do I need a better scan tool that can clear the fault codes?

Just had the engine light come on and limp mode on the way home. Using a cheap obd2 scanner I'm getting codes P00AF and U0029. Don't have a dpf, could the vanes still be sooted up? Actuator arm seems to move freely. Any ideas anyone? Is it still okay to drive or could I knacker the whole engine?

My local garage doesn't fit supplied parts anymore as he says too many supplied the wrong parts. Any garage could fit them, look at reviews for them around you and then call them and ask if they'll do it and for how much? Be sure they will fit though.

Hi Rod, I think you'd get away with them, but they'd need low profile tires which would make the ride more uncomfortable. I'd also fit narrower tyres ie: 225/40/r19 . The recommended offset on an 8j 19 inch wheel is 45, so with the 37 on yours it gives you 8mm less to the arch. The extra half...

I use the jacking points normally, I use to put a tennis ball on top of the jack so as not to damage the paint. Bought a 3 tonne jack recently that has a rubber cover over the contact point.

Some say that the heater matrix could be the problem and it's a big job changing them, so flushing it out might solve the issue. https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/2008-accord-no-heat-on-driver-side-only.299873/

The pistons on the 8th gen I have don't require winding in. To remove the seized piston , once the calliper is free of the disc, I just kept pushing the brake pedal down, then checking how far it had moved out each push.