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It's not the subframe but the sills. The rear by the arches is the worse but the metal is pretty soft all the way along towards the front. I went down to WBAC earlier. Price online was £745, then it got knocked down to £271! :rolleyes: It'll be going on eBay this weekend hopefully.

AFAIK my car hasn't lived by the sea. Spent time by the coast on holiday but that's it. It's pretty bad. These photos were taken a year a go. The arrow pointing to the hole is now fist sized, likely to be much larger. The other side is going the same way, no hole yet but pretty spongy!

Yes I've seen the engines sell on eBay for £600-£900 but they are out of the car and can be shipped. The whole car could sell for similar. I don't have the knowledge, tools or inclination to remove an engine. I can strip the rest of it just not the engine. I was told the CAT is worth £250+ but...

There is heavy corrosion on the chassis especially the rear and it's going to need a lot of welding to get through an MOT. The CAT also has a hole in it and is blowing so that needs replacing too. That's without anything else that might need doing too. It's just not worth spending the money on...

Thanks, I did this on Wednesday morning when I got the arm, it was also the drivers side. I did it more or less how you did John but used a large pole in between the subframe and lower arm to move the strutt down. That was actually a pain and I also had a job getting it back in the turret...

The car has just failed the MOT on excessive play in the ball joint so it needs replacing. ECP had one for £13 which I'm collecting tomorrow. Probably won't last 6 months but the car will be scrapped next year as the chassis has bad corrosion too and only just passes. It's going to cost too much...

There is a filter underneath the airbox that I changed on mine. I didn't notice much difference from replacing it but I'm sure it helped in some way. https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-accord-automatic-transmission-atf-filter-2003-2008/ It's really easy to change the...

Just an update... I fixed the rear motor by taking it apart, it was seized! So after a clean and grease it seems to be working ok. I did buy a cheap rear arm off eBay that was listed for an Accord tourer and it was 10mm too long, so with the blade fitted it got stuck underneath the rear...

I had another go at trying to remove the wiper arm earlier and the plastic snapped! I guess being 20 years old it's gone brittle and the inner sleeve is seized. I'll have to try and cut that part off without damaging the threaded part. Then get a new wiper arm and see if I can get the motor...

I'll try that once I can get the wiper arm off! I've sprayed it with some penetrating fluid but I can get it to budge. Don't want to tap or pull it too hard in case I crack the screen. Any tips on removing it? I switched the jet around with the passenger side and it still didn't work so it's...

The first issue is with the rear wiper, it's been working slowly the last couple of weeks but stopped completely this morning! Are the tourer and saloon motors the same? I am ***uming it's that or could it be something else? The second issue is the front drivers washer jet is just dribbling...

Thanks, that's a handy link to have. Think I'm going to get some padig discs and pads from CP4L. I've been reading mixed reviews for mtec, although I have used them before that was over 10 years a go. Cox Honda have some genuine ones for a good price but they're still £100 more. I'm not sure...

No idea, I will have to get the caliper out and measure them but the minimum is 23mm I think. They're Honda ones and no mention of them being replaced in the history but I'm sure they have been! The rear discs are Honda ones too and I've never changed them, only the pads for genuine ones...

I had an advisory on these in November as the pads don't have much meat left, which I knew anyway. I cleaned them up when I first got the car over 9 years a go but realised I have never actually changed them. The pads were done about 10k miles before I bought it so they're 50k miles old now...

Yep I know you're right and it doesn't take long to change really. I'm going to go with the exol 0w30 from lubetech. Where is everyone buying oil filters now, genuine Honda ones with a sump washer? I used to buy from Holdcroft but they don't have them separately on the website any more. Cox...

For those who have switched to 0w30 do you need to top up frequently? I've had my 2.4 petrol for nearly 8 years. I used 5w30 until last year when I switched to 5w40. The main reason was to see if the engine needed less top ups. I think it's a little better at not burning. I did have a 20L drum...

My display keeps going off intermittently but comes back on if I press the top of the dash. Does this sound like the soldering issue or could it just be a loose connection seeing that it comes back on by pressing the dash? My soldering skills are non existent so I'm not even going to attempt...

Problem with that is they wouldn't know if it's a genuine CAT or not until after they've cut it off! I doubt they'll spend the time checking beforehand.

We had the CAT nicked on our Lexus Hybrid this week, despite trying to park the car in such a way that it would be difficult to jack it, but they still did it. Now I'm worried about my Accord as that was parked next to it and also my MX5! There seem to be a few different gangs operating in my...

I've had 3 or 4 letters now, not got around to getting it booked in. It's already been done once but seems that one needs replacing too!