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where is your boost reading taken from? It would make sense to check for leaks in the pipework first. On a side note I would be sceptical of the turbo achieving way more than 200hp but good to see you push the boundaries to see what's achievable

search for threebond premium silicon grease (demon tweaks) use this stuff myself, it's what Honda use. Can use on your brakes etc

you would normally reuse them normally with a new cotter pin.

there is a issue on some Ps hoses on the high pressure side and o rings. Hopefully it's only leaking at a joint.

If you use a sealant then you don't really need a wax on top. Some people like to for added protection and to add some warmth and depth. Just remember a sealant or wax is your last step. So say if you use a polish (which is abrasive) that will remove any protection. for off the shelf products I...

you do realise if doing the driveshaft, the clutch change on top is not a job you would do 'while your at it'. I can change a passenger driveshaft in about 10-20mins using a ramp and impact sockets. you should not lose any gearbox oil doing the passenger shaft.

get a clay mitt over the bar. Can be picked up from Halfords. After your wash rinse no need to dry just get a bucket of water with a little shampoo and use the mitt- trust me it's so much easier over clay bar and quicker too.

The accord is sensitive to tyre choice and road noise is particularly bad. If bearing is going they don't seem obvious, if no change in noise when you load up the suspension while cornering then it probably isn't bearing. A good check is jack the car up and spin the wheel while holding the...

no your oil is ok as its not 0/20 which is thinner than yours when warm.

Cheap readers will not read abs/srs faults get the codes read before going any further.

You'll find that is the start of you ABS wheel sensor beginning to fail. BUT get the codes read before changing anything.

Good thread. Just to add those asking few turns without starting is fine for the turbo. You only really prime brand new turbos as your ones will already have oil in them from use.

sounds like it was stuck in good and proper...glad you sorted the vibration. The clunk you describe if the same is normally the steering column I found but could be the driveshaft? Please let us know if replacing the other side cures it.

If the engine sounds strong(no chain rattle ) would be happy with that history.

No problem glad you got it sorted :)

alot of people retrofit the Silvia or R32GTR calipers into other makes of cars. Have no idea if they would fit the Accord just putting this out here?

don't know the PN but about £25 if I remember correctly. The 7gen is abit more than just a nozzle hence the price.

With the engine on if you pump the pedal does it firm up? I think you still have air in the system, leak or otherwise. try bleeding the brakes using the two man method. Bleeding brakes if done properly can be done in no time at all.

Cars with ABS pumps don't really matter, so start from wheel nearest abs pump and work out. If your brakes are biting ok then you should fine. The accord pedal is not rock hard anyway but should firm up under moderate braking.

I know it worked for you which is great but you can get aircon recharge for £30, sometimes £15 when on offer through sites such as Groupon. it's best to evacuate all the gas and replace properly with the correct weight and lubricating oils.