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The alternator charges the battery not the ECU. So I would bed/borrow/steal an alternator either recon or used and go from there. Must be cheaper than chasing your tail looking at the ecu

Be aware that quite a bit of heat seems to be generated in the lower centre console area. I don't know if this is from the DVD drive, the amp or something else but thought I would mention it.

Are you lowered or standard? Lowered can wear the inside of the rear tyres unless you fit camber arms. Towing can have the same effect. Some early ones also need different camber arms from Honda to sort the problem. Some of the big name tyre centres seem to do Uniroyal rainsports quite cheap...

I think if you want to add an external source to the standard screen that plugs in to the back of the DVD drive too

VSA is vehicle stability ***ist. Make sure the light doesn't come on on a test drive. Originally it was an expensive fault to fix but not so bad now so I wouldn't worry too much. All mods should be declared. How much it affects your premium depends very much on your insurer.

The official Honda system with the buttons on the steering wheel is known to sometimes go faulty and drain the battery. Try pulling the fuse to it if you suspect it is draining the battery overnight.

Voltage sounds low especially with a running engine, you could do with checking it at around 2.5k revs where it should show around 14.4v If the battery is being flattened when left, have you got the hands free telephone system installed as that is known for sometimes draining the battery over...

Yep I am. Buy what you can afford and what suits your needs and makes you happy. The op asked about the diesel so let's stick with giving him advice on that instead of criticising his decision.

The amp probably won't get in your way anyway but I'm 90% certain removing it won't cause any problems.

I'm pretty certain the amp is just a basic small amp about the size of a *** packet and shouldn't cause any problems. I also don't think the DVD drive would be too difficult to move if you wanted to. It is only the standard head unit that is needed for the air con but even that could probably be...

I think air con issues only present themselves if you remove the headunit as the display is used by the aircon. I also have a vague memory of it being used as a sensor too, perhaps for the interior temperature?

I don't want to frighten you but my old Accord did the police siren noise and about a day later the turbo went pop. There might be a diy on here for bleeding/replacing the clutch fluid but basically you have a small fluid reservoir under the bonnet near the bulk head. Master cylinder is at the...

That's predictive text on my phone for you

Yes but some people rotate them every 6-10k miles until all 4 need replacing together. I have even known one person to include the spare in their tyre rotations so they needed to buy 5 at once!

Only thing I can think of is a hairdryer to try and remove the moisture from them and then see if you can shake them out.

Looks great. Can I ask what it cost?

He did say before he was regularly sitting around 55mph and anything around 50-60mph really helps economy on the Accord

As Jon has said I would expect the whine to either be the turbo or a small boost leak. The clutch sounds like either the master or slave cylinder is sticking slightly. I'm guessing that pulling over is just giving it enough time to slowly release and go back to normal. Try changing the fluid...

If you have a chrome strip on the edge of the bonnet and a five speed gearbox its a pretty facelift. Chrome all on the grill and a 6 speed gearbox is a facelift. There are other differences but that's the easy ones

I don't really rotate my tyres because I would rather buy 2 at once than 4 The best example I have seen for having the tyres with the most tread on the rear was on 5th gear. They did one of their emergency brake tests with new tyres on front and back and I now know which I would go for. Try...