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Difficult to help like this, especially when you say there are no error codes. It’s possible someone has modified the software and deleted the dtc table, otherwise such a total loss of power would trigger at least one dtc. Have someone check your software first and then go from there with basic...

Depending on how badly damaged it is, take it to a radiator specialist and let them repair it. They can probably fabricate some new hangers too if they’re broken.

When you say it loses power do you mean it loses electrical power or engine power? Where are you located?

Yes from a tuning, economy and overall package perspective really. They’re highly capable, dependable and easy to live with. If clean air zone is not an issue, for your needs as a load lugger I would suggest going for a diesel. They come in both manual and auto (Type S is manual only).

R20 is ok but nothing special really. If you can find a K24 they’re decent, and I’ve tuned a fair few with good results. Best of the bunch as an all rounder is the IDTEC really but if you’re in the ULEZ then sadly not a viable option.

I would have your battery tested with a proper tester that checks for battery cell health. If that checks out then replace the alternator again. It may have a faulty clutch.

There is a well known issue with the 7th gen related to the factory Bluetooth kit which causes a parasitic battery drain. Just locate the module and disconnect it.

I would switch to 5w40 and add the additive to help with some extra protection.

Try adding some additive with it like Lucas stabiliser, might help seal the rings if that’s where it’s escaping.

Try switching to a 5w40 synthetic oil.

Yes according to the data it’s correct

Then I would suggest a fuel pressure leak off test, possibly a bad injector. Your battery indicator problem is likely an additional problem, either a bad battery, alternator or maybe a corroded earth strap

It’s the pressure relief valve on the drivers side that you need to change most likely.

That link doesn’t take me to a compressor but the text in the url correctly references the right engine

It’s not the wiring, there is a small black connector on the compressor which is for the thermal switch. If you’re able to change it without breaking then do that but it might actually be doing its job and your compressor is overheating. You can actually bypass it by joining the 2 wires together...

The compressor has a thermal cut off switch. Either that is bad or the compressor is overheating in which case the cut off is doing its job. Often easier just to change the compressor for a cheap replacement.

It needs to be checked on a HDS for functional test, but if it’s moving cleanly by hand and you can’t feel any sticking or high spots then it should be fine.

Measure how much comes out and refill the same volume, then warm up the engine and gearbox, cycle through from D to N to R a few times to let it fill the torque converter and check the dipstick while it’s warm to get a measure.

Honda boxes typically take 7-8 litres in total but you can’t drain it all simply from the drain plug. A normal oil change will remove around 3-3.5 litres and that’s what you’re refilling (either via the fill hole or the dipstick tube). You’re not actually changing the entire ATF in a standard...

Yep never known anyone to have cause to do this on a MK8, and I’ve seen a few of these now. You sure it’s not injector knock/rattle you’re hearing? Is it doing it even at idle or under load?