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I remove the whole caliper, clamp the hose to stop fluid leakage. Remove all rubber parts from the caliper and heat it with a blowtorch until its hot enough to sizzle water dripped on to it. Leave to cool and use a wire brush in a rotary tool to clean the grooves in the caliper. Blow clean and...

Enjoy ! I went down the same route when my 7th Gen EX was rear ended and written off. The 8th gen is not as practical but handles better and with Fahads magic touch the Type S produces sufficient power and torque to make driving pleasurable. Long distance is its forté, 300+km journeys are no...

I don't think they are the same internally, the one that has the arm is a wind in piston IIRC and the other has a straight push piston.

I used a wheel from a Civic. they fit and are almost identical in rolling diameter with a 205/55-16 tyre. On my ATS they have to be fitted to the rear as they won't clear the brakes but perform well on the rear.

What usually happens is a combination of : Corroded piston/ Corrosion behind seal/dust bellows that pushes the rubber out of the groove increasing friction and the consequent retraction of piston is poor. Is the piston corroded externally?

The boot can be intact and there will still be corrosion behind the boot, its only a dust boot not a water or oil proof seal. The only way you will know is by stripping the caliper and inspecting it and possibly rebuilding it.

If its totally seized the best way is to fit a grease nipple to where the brake hose attaches and pump the piston out with a grease gun. You will need to clean it anyway, usually the problem is corrosion behind the seal in the caliper body, once the piston is out, pop the seal and dust boot out...

I can't make out anything on that pic, it looks like an Andy Warhol painting.

I have been way to busy to get on top of this at the moment, I have intermittent aircon, it seems to function well on Auto and cools the car OK with just me and an ambient temp of 17-19, but if switched from auto to manual control the instant you press ac on the dual temp displays on the screen...

Can you post the instruction on how to check the wiring for the module please?

Mine is also an 8th Gen, I'll have a look when I get a chance to get under the car.

This is a good thread, MY AC stopped working this week as well, I took it to an AC specialist and he ran it through a Waeco AC system, which pressure tested it and removed all the old R134a and oil. pressure and vacuum tested it and then refilled it with 475g of gas and 27ml of oil. When you...

You might need to invest or find a mechanic with a Steelman chassis ear set. they can be bought cheaply for the basic ones but wireless cordless are more expensive.

I would say the closest to the spec would be Motul Gear 300 75w-80, Not sure of the the limited slip version LS which you have. The Honda spec is old MTF-7289 so there are probably better alternatives out there but as you have found out it is not easy to work out.

Its not as simple as Tourer = Tophat drum in disc and Saloon = disc , Some tourers have disc only handbrake and some saloons have drum/disc setups. Look at this saloon EPG it has drum and disc rear brakes. https://www.lingshondaparts.com/partscatalog/catalog/browse/catalog/hondacars/modelid/3398...

ATE is a brake manufacturer, link here https://www.ate-brakes.com/ The hammerhead pads are these ones, https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-original-brake-pads/ for obvious reasons. The twin piston ones are Nissin manufacture not ATE, I don't know which models had them but I do...

ATS 2.2 IDTEC have them. not sure about others, lots of them had the ATE hammer head type.

Look at this website: https://towcar.info/type.php

I highly recommend the Problem Solving Bushes for the front bushing replacement, They are a very easy fit and made a big difference in the handling of my 7th gen when I had it. They also are not a huge price, I would take the opportunity to use some antiseize on the bolts that secure them to the...

They look good and clean, what did you use to clean them?