Search results

Ok. Thanks

Thanks for your reply. So the next question would be, is it possible to extract or view the current map in an ecu, and see how it differs from the standard map, if at all? And does such map editing automatically generate a new ID for the map, or could a map still have its standard name, but have...

Forgive my ignorance, but is it possible that a standard factory fitted ECU can be re-mapped, so that it is no longer as per the factory settings. Or to do such an operation, does a new chip need fitted somewhere, or a totally different ECU? I don't intend doing any changes, but I'm just curious...

That's great. The only thing is I am now baffled why mine reads 4.8V :huh: It's working anyway, so hopefully I never need to find out!

Since, like you said, you are using the wrong manual, maybe your ABS unit is in the same place as mine:-

I'm afraid I don't know the modulator whereabouts on your car, but on mine it is right under my nose, right beside the power steering pump.

Sorry, I find your description a bit confusing. All I can say is mine works fine and below is shown the voltages I measure with the ignition switch on.

I'm pretty sure If you unplug the connector, then switch the ignition on, on one the two wires coming from the module, there will be about 4.8V. The module uses this to test the sensor circuit integrity, even before a wheel turns. (With the connector connected, the sensor will pull this voltage...

I have a 1999 Accord and a 2005 Accord. They both use entirely different systems, so I'm not sure what year the change took place. The 1999 car uses an ****ogue sensor, i.e. it produces a sine wave. The 2005 car uses a digital sensor. If your car uses the ****ogue sensor then you can test the...

hmmm.. I got this fixed. I made a bar to turn the hub by hand at the recommended speed for testing, and it became clear that the rear left WSS was producing a small signal. I removed the sensor and filed some plastic off the side of it, to allow it to get closer to the reluctor, and now it...

I have the ABS kickback on my pedal at about 1 second before coming to a standstill. I am presuming some wheel speed sensor is outputting a low signal. The official manual gives voltage levels to be expected for the two front wheels speed sensors, and the rear left speed sensor, during...

Did you get this sorted? It sounds exactly like mine behaved until I sorted out the EGR The details are here: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/25177-detonation-pinging-pinking-at-minimal-load-not-at-high-load/

So, just to close this off, here is the valuable lesson that I learned with this. This was a classic case of the OBD data showing the opposite of what was actually true, in a way. When I started the car with these lumps of carbon stuck in the EGR valve seat, my Hondash app showed the STFT...

So, it is finally fixed :-)))) I will explain the fix for the detonation, but I will first explain how I stumbled upon the fix. I actually found the detonation fix, as a result of trying to get the car to even idle again, after messing it all up a few days ago Since a few days ago after...

I got 3 signals at the ECU beside the passengers feet, but you need a rubber neck to get in at them. GREEN TRACE = PIN 20 (green wire TDC sensor) 31 pin connector BLUE TRACE = PIN 11 (brown wire INJ 1 pulse) 25 pin connector BROWN TRACE = PIN 29 (yellow wire CAM sensor in distributor) 31 pin...

Here are the four images I captured. Hopefully they're self explanatory. I just have to try to capture these details when the trouble starts and see if I can make any sense of it. These were capture while stationary. The car won't even idle now. I possibly incinerated my O2 sensor with that...

Excellent. It's all clear now. When I observed the TDC pulse on the scope I noticed the sinewave shape was non symmetrical, and had a slight blip at the start of it. I can now see why. The two lobes on the pulley have a slight ramp before their peak, so that correlates exactly with my scope...

Thanks for the photo. It makes a bit more sense now. But does that imply that the sensor on the left actually detects the pulley right through the rubber belt? I am going to have to connect my scope again to help clarify this. From what I remember there were 12 crank sensor pulses for 2 TDC...

Unfortunately the better performance was short lived. The car began to become very lumpy at idle, then went I went into the motor shop, when I came back out it didn't start immediately. I had to crank it about 5 seconds which is completely not normal. Regarding that module in the distributor...

So here's the latest. I filed out the distributor which gave me the option to retard the timing by about 10°(crankshaft). When I set the distributor to this new position (with the SCS shorted), I strobed the tiiming pulley and it showed to be firing about 2° BTDC. I removed the SCS paperclip...