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While browsing the parts catalog, I stumbled across something that I haven't seen get mentioned here. Namely, a strainer for the oil pump, located on the side of the gearbox, towards the bottom (21180-PR8-016). Since I'm planning on changing the MTF anyway, I figured I'll take it out, give it a...

Something I've noticed is no one seems to replace this thing. Does it just not cause problems? If I stick a stethoscope on the vacuum line fitting attached to it, there's a wicked screeching; not sure if I should be worried about it. Curiously there's no aftermarket availability and of course...

When people ask me what coolant they should use for their Accords, I recommend them the original Type 2 or Ravenol HTC, as it has the same Honda approval and seems to work fine. However I noticed that the HTC coolant also has G11 approval. Researching further, it seems that G12++ or G13 coolant...

0W30 or 5W30.

Yep, it's suitable. The only caveat is possibly increased oil consumption.

The guides on here say to get 3 liters, not sure where you're getting 4.2 from?

Hopefully you actually have oil pressure. These are some pictures taken from the ESM:

Seems like there's 2 ways, according to the ESM:

If you mean Mobil1 FS 0W40, that is an excellent oil. Do note, you may notice a slight drop in power and fuel economy, compared to a 0W30. But it won't hurt anything and if you're happy with it, keep using it.

Go by the manual, that means to use an A5/B5 oil for better fuel economy or A3/B4 oil for better engine protection. As for viscosity, 0W25 is not a real viscosity. I would recommend a 0W30 viscosity. You can visit bobistheoilguy.com for all your oil knowledge needs (not sponsored).

Age can perish the rubbers inside, abuse can break the springs inside or glaze the mating surface with the clutch, causing poor engagement. I guess by "weld shut" you mean convert it to a single mass flywheel. Not sure about that :P

Just to note, you may use A5/B5 for better fuel economy or A3/B4 oil for better engine protection, so long as it's 0W30 or 5W30, although 0W30 is preferred. I personally use Ravenol. It's pricey, but seems worth it.

The procedure for resetting the AUTO function in the Accord seems simpler. Here's the procedure, as per the ESM: Resetting the Power Window Resetting the power window is required after performing repairs to the power windows system or if the auto function fails to operate. Turn the...

Link to ATF replacement procedure, as per ESM: https://mega.nz/file/so0TTJoB#wD2P7B_KmUsRZ0xcHh6GRdWOUvNuSz3w1GR0LgApiqc

I'm suspecting the ELD unit in the under-hood fuse/relay box is misbehaving. It's job is to switch the alternator between low and high charging modes, ie 12.6V and 14.5V, as needed. I would say to check the G302 grounding point for corrosion, but I'm not sure where it is.

A bad hose can certainly cause brake binding, as can badly lubricated parts. What about the parking brake cables? Check them for rusting and binding. It could also be a too tight of a parking brake adjustment.

Hello AmboMan, if you're planning on diagnosing this sensor issue on your own, I think you'll find the procedure from the ESM useful: https://mega.nz/file/BtU0jRSR#r8WNJuh2FctHlfpG7UNZaD6CeCUphM0RiLwBWgpgJLw In order to get access to the CKP sensor, the ESM says to remove the fan shroud and the...

I looked up "Honda Accord reading ABS codes without reader" and watched a YouTube video.

Okay. After some more research I found out that the blinking pattern means something. The only pattern I'm getting is 1-7 (1 long and 7 short blinks).

I don't understand. There are no codes on the dash while I perform the reset. Here's a video of it. Still no codes on my reader. Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1crbqDZ4p_DVABAxA6APLm9DQasRQjED3/view?usp=drivesdk