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my old 202K CDTI used to average 45-47 at that sport of speed, week in week out on normal esso diesel

To me it would be condition and history that counts. 180k of motorway its dead easy, the same of town work would kill pretty much any car. Mine at 202k before it died in an accident was fine apart from a slippy clutch which I've spoken about many times(search).

202K here...

I run without pollen filter as it makes it almost hurricane force.... especially useful in winter for demist/defrost etc

Mines been slipping for > 50 K miles now, hasn't got any worse, I reckon its just weak springs rather than wear per se... if now is not a good time financially it might be an option to just carry on and see how you go. I make sure I don't let it slip if I can help it, backing off if it starts.

whereas its commonly known I use and abuse mine with the very minimum servicing I can get away with and it runs sweet as a nut.... :D Anyone want to buy a *cough* well looked after reliable tourer? :D

^^^^ what is this strange schedule you speaketh of? :D

that its revs would reach 5K or above (redlines at 7K) before finally latching. ^^^^ you saying you would let it rev higher than it should be for that speed and wait for it to "catch up"? the way I drive it is as soon as its slips I back off a little till it grabs and drives properly. i.e...

the question is Steve, did you "need" a new clutch or did you fall into the "its slipping it must be worn out mentality"? I think I've proven that first signs of slippage are not a cue to drive straight to honda for a new clutch, you can't do 50K on a slipping clutch if its genuinely a worn...

Result of the mot is in.... 3 bulbs. That's it... Sodding reputable thing, how am I going to persuade the missus I need a new car if it keeps passing it's mot with no problem

owned for > 70 K miles since 2010 Jan VSA - none exhaust manifolds - none ( not even warranty replacement ) Clutches - still on original although it slips in 3/4th if I give it a full boot and has done for 50K miles now. I still accelerate quickly, just not full bore timing chains - none any...

yep, 155 2 litre twin spark on LPG :D

its actually the 4th car I've taken through the 200k barrier so stands up for Volvo, Saab and Alfa quality as well!

so here's a piccy of my odometer last night... so I finally made it through the 200K barrier this morning on the way to work. later than expected having managed to agree a 1 day work from home deal. MOT tomorrow so lets see how well th eold bus gets on there so, who else?

OK, mine is pre facelift (2005 ) I'm on my work lappy so can't see the photobucket scan above the owners manual ( now that I can be bothered to get it out states ) Always use a synthetic motor oil that meets the ACEA specification, and is the proper weight as shown in the following chart. When...

but do they? my owners manual lists all different grades and the ambient temperatures that they can be used... IIRC no where does it actually say " we recommend only 0-30"

OK, had my Accord nearly 3 years now and am on my 7th oil and filter change. Up till recently the National/Kwik fits/ATS websites/guys always recommended and used 0-30 as we all expect on here. As I'm due another I just rang round etc and every one of them is now saying it should be 5-30 and...

mine is pre facelift but I have had 63 litres in a fill before now. from the light coming on I have covered > 100 miles..... I reckon I was down to fumes though...

My clutch has been doing the slipping if I boot it in 3/4th for over 50K miles now, hasn't got any worse in that time. I can still accelerate pretty well, just not full throttle. it is of course your choice, I'm just saying it may not be that necessary to do it right now. I'll be honest and say...

problem is that what do you buy? all comparable models (mondeo's/X types, Vectras/C5 etc) all have their own list of troubles if you research them. Its the way of modern cars.... we can eek out another 3 mpg if we add this hugely complex bit, it wont break whilst in warranty so what do we...