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Today my driver side window switch decided to break after trying to close the window, something has physically broken on the switch itself so I'm unable to get my window up, is there any way to jump contacts with a paperclip to enable the switch? Any advice appreciated, thanks alot *Edit - not...

Sounds like en electrical fault. Usually alternator when stuff goes mad like that? Maybe get the charging voltage checked.

Did you fill it right up? Mine can take like nearly 100 miles to move from the full position, then when it gets below half it just shoots down. Also do you still have the range left trip working?

Other than obviously original honda parts being the prefered option when cost allows, what are some other brands that are know to be solid suspension/steering parts, like upper ball joints, track/tie rod ends ect. Anyone have a prefered brand that have been reliable/quality? as I'm due some bits...

I drove 180 miles in limp mode to get my car remapped, that was nearly 2 years ago now. Take from that what you will lol.

I've always worried about selling the car, I don't expect much for mine as it's a high mileage and my customers and general work have left the paint in need of scratch repairs and correction. I've done my best to mechanically maintain it though. Still a few bits to sort out. Then the clutch...

I had it with the old clutch and I have it with the new (now second old clutch). As you say reverse is always there and worse and you can feather it in with revs. First is intermittent. Maybe it's more to do with the flywheel/engine mount design as it should be the flywheel that dampens low...

Having a DPF that keeps clogging wont throw any other codes as long as everything else is working fine. It will start to throw codes such as boost pressure ect if the clogged DPF starts to blowback in to the turbo and cause damage. I think you're thinking just because no error codes are thrown...

Then you need a new DPF. A battery reset won't fix anything like that. And what "testers" say there are no errors? An OBD2 reader won't pick up any errors from a blocked for, you'll need a forced regen to reset that message.

Yep all good. Fahad wouldn't recommend it otherwise. As you said, you'll just have to enter your radio code again.

Pretty sure the type S i-dtec clutch is a straight swap in to a normal i-dtec. - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-accord-2-2-type-s-clutch-kit-2009-2015/

Fitted new front discs/pads today without too much hassle thankfully just very stiff allen bolts. Rear caliper arrived and will fit that tomorrow, also I plan on flushing/bleeding the entire brake system tomorrow - Is there a prefered order on the accord or shall I just start at the replacement...

Do I need a handbrake adjustment after replacing the caliper, or just transfer the cable over and bleed the new caliper?

Oh nice. Will definitely bookmark that. I went ahead and purchased the apec one from eBay. *Didn't see replies before buying*, I'll just need to return mine for a £65 refund then thankfully the price turns out about the same as brakes international. Will definitely use them for any further...

Well this morning I took off the rear caliper, the piston was very difficult to wind back in. Brake fluid reservoir is still full, with no visible leaks. I put everything back together and went for a drive. The brakes engage as normal, albeit feel a bit weak, but I'm due pads/discs on the front...

I'll try keep this brief as I usually go on a bit. Basically, I pulled the hand brake up maybe a bit harder than usual, pulled away again to continue my journey then when I went to apply the brake about 1.5miles down the road, the brake pedal went to the floor with minimal engagement of the...

I don't "recommend" eBay for everything, but it's a very good platform to find car parts, especially used from breakers. As you said, you're looking for a reasonable option and £2,673 doesn't sound like a reasonable option. Here are the search results for Honda Accord Dtec Turbochargers...

Option #1 eBay a lower milage turbocharger, fit and sell the car. Option #2 eBay a lower mileage turbocharger and fit and keep the car and face DPF problems. Presuming you aren't willing to face a "permanent solution". Option #3 eBay auction the car as is and cut your losses.

Revive turbo cleaner will not fix anything. Chemicals don't miraculously fix mechanical components, it may however prolong the life of an already good turbo. Cheapest option would probably be get a turbocharger from an accord that's been broken and get it fitted. Obviously that is the most...

Yeah, takes em about an hour to do. Might as well book it in while the dealership have the part available.