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1st MOT Fail

neilrosser

neilrosser

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CL9 2.4 i-VTEC Exec
Says on the refusal cert..... 001 Offside Front (broken) Anti-Roll bar linkage insecure (2.4.G.1)

Would this be due to the D bushes?

I'm sure there was a suspension exploded diagram on here somewhere (or a link) but can't find it now, anyone direct me to it please.

Cheers
Neil
 
Just sounds like you need to replace the droplink. DIY Is possible on this one. I would change all of them TBH with quality aftermarket parts.
 
Good man Neil.

Are the D bushes on the front? If so, it's a bit of an involved task as a DIY as the sub-frame needs to be lowered a little to get them out :( On the rear it's a doddle.

The droplinks are very easy front and rear.
 
Thanks for that info jayok.
I'll hopefully tackle it on Saturday, depending on the weather and the delivery.

Cheers
Neil
 
Ok, so the parts arrived today. Just one question....Is there a specific place to put the axle stands? or is it a case of just somewhere solid underneath?/

Cheers
Neil
 
The axle stands are just under side sills of the doors. They are very specific points don't use the stands anywhere else or you risk damaging the body of the car or it collapsing on you. There's a Jacking Points article here somewhere that give's a diagram.

Also, when jacking the car up, there's two points front at the sub-frame and rear at the tow-bar attachment point. Again, these are in the diagrams on this site.
 
Are these a common problem on the Accord? My car got an advisory when the MOT was done and it's knocking like a sod now so I need to replace them. Looking in the history it wasn't that long ago it had another replaced. What are the best ones to get, cheap or Honda, do the latter even last much longer? They're an easy job to change so don't mind buying cheap for these.

neilrosser said:
Just ordered F&B Meyle drop links & D bushes ;)

Cheers
Neil
Click to expand...
Got a link Neil to where you bought them from? :)

Also once you've taken the wheels off put them under the sills so if the worst does happen the car will land on the wheels and save you from any nasty injuries or damaging the car. Always use axle stands and take your time when jacking the car and placing them, there is no rush. Never go under the car without axle stands like this poor sod did :(
 
Hi Rich, don't worry...I've got axle stands, wheels, bricks & half a tree if I need it :D.

Can't seem to put up a link (my screen freezes :angry:) The item no. is 170882436097

Cheers
Neil
 
All four droplinks fitted :) Just a couple of awkward nuts on the old ones, but nothing a little heat couldn't sort out :p. The new ones fitted perfectly and look much better quality B). MOT booked in for next Saturday ;)

Cheers
Neil
 
Well done Neil - it's always nice to complete a DIY on your own!

Let us know how the MoT goes.
 
Nice one mate, always a good feeling when you've saved some money and done the job yourself.

With the front ARB bushes, can you not bend the bracket up to get the new ones in and then bend it back into place? I did this on a previous car when I didn't fancy dropping the subframe.
 
Ah the old "redneck" approach to the ARB bushes :ph34r:

Will you be able to bend the bracket away from the old bush? Yes
Will you be able to bend the bracket back over the new bush? Unlikely

The bracket is actually shaped with a lip for extra stiffness, bending it makes it really hard to bend back into shape. Coupled with trying to get the bolt back into the sub-frame, it's an experience in frustration and profanities.

Dropping the sub-frame slightly is the best approach. Note, you don't drop it entirely, only a little to get at the rear bolt. To do this

Make sure the car is supported properly with axle stands.

1. Mark the subframe position across the bolt holes with a pencil or tipex or whatever works.
2. Support the rear of the subframe with 2 jacks - one at each corner
3. Remove the rear sub-frame bolts
4. Remove the middle-engine mount bolts (the ones that hold the engine onto the subframe in the middle of the block)
5. Lower the frame by about 3-4cm (enough to get in a socket and knuckle-joint) using both jacks. I normally do about 1cm each side
6. Loosen the bolt at the rear - don't remove it! It's a massive pain in the *** to get back in if you do.
7. The bracket is loose and you can spin it out of the way
8. Replace the bush and re-attach the bracked
9. Jack up the subframe back to the chassis. Make sure the pencil marks, etc are still aligned. If they are off slightly, using a hammer, gently tap the frame to bring them back into alignment
10. Bolt up the rear bolts and middle engine mounts.

All done.

Takes about 1-1.5 hours, but I take my time and I'm super careful about lowering and the alignment of the subframe.

I strongly recommend soaking the ARB bracket bolts in penetrating fluid first, they seem to capture all the worst elements of rust.
 
So she passed yesterday :D.

There were some advisories though: Underside components corroded :wacko:, and cuts across tread on both front tyres :blink:.

I did notice it looked quite rusty underneath when I did the droplinks. I'll get some pics up, so you can tell me if it's the norm or not for an 11 year old car.

Cheers
Neil
 
Do you think the corrosion is excessive?
Also what do you think would cause the cuts in the two front tyres?

IMG_00000103_zps4f7069ae.jpg
IMG_00000101_zps5c6c3239.jpg
IMG_00000097_zps102b536b.jpg
 
Looks a wee bit corroded, but as the parts in the photo are quite solid and thick (ie not like a car wing) the corrosion shouldn't be a problem. I have noticed that my accord is also starting to look a bit like that. Here's a tip, before the MOT next year/retest, get a wire brush and rub the surface corrosion off the affected parts, that will do grand. Btw, my front antiroll bar drop arms where actually hanging off and dangling around at once stage, at the same time. She was fun in corners lol
 
Wire brush all parts as mentioned above, then spray a coating of stone chip shield over to protect - Obviously avoid rubber covers etc. I have done this to all my cars. Keeps them looking new.
 
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