I'm trying to remove the oil chain. I have removed the tensioner, the tensioner arm and the guide. The chain stays loose, but i don't see any chance to get it out as it seems too short. I'm probably missing something?
2.2 i-ctdi oil chain removal issue
- Thread starter n1ks0n
- Start date
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Slide the pulley off.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
(and don't lose the woodruff key)
I can slide the crankshaft sprocket, but the chain won't let it go all the way out. Do I have to remove the oil pump sprocket by securing the shaft through the inspection hole? I feel kind of dumb, because i have undone so much stuff and this is the last one. It looks like it's loose but definitely not enough 
.
.Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Yes. You need to remove the sprocket for the pump.
Put the blunt end of an 8mm drill bit in the hole to lock the balance shafts.
Located on the chain end, towards the back of the motor. Motor should be at TDC to find the hole.
Put the blunt end of an 8mm drill bit in the hole to lock the balance shafts.
Located on the chain end, towards the back of the motor. Motor should be at TDC to find the hole.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
(Same woodruff key deal - don't lose it, as its tiny)
Thank you very much Goodluckmonkey. I was avoiding the removal of the sprocket the whole time. What is the torque of the bolt that holding the oil pump sprocket? I'm planning to reuse the sprockets. Here are photos: I also saw that the chain colored links were not matched with the sprockets probably by Honda which was interesting.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
You'd find that given enough revolutions of the motor, everything would eventually line up. Remember cams typically run at half the speed of the crank hence the difference in sprocket sizes.
No idea about the bolt torque. I just crank things up.
I normally only use a torque wrench for head bolts and wheel bearings, the rest is just feel.
No idea about the bolt torque. I just crank things up.
I normally only use a torque wrench for head bolts and wheel bearings, the rest is just feel.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Hard to tell how hooked the sprocket teeth are without having the item in my hand.
The general consensus is to change everything, as of course worn sprockets will quickly stretch a new chain.
The smaller ones will have done more work of course. If in doubt change them.
The oil pump chain is the one that likes to fail (due to doing more laps and being wound tighter) if you're on a budget i'd make them the priority.
Also check the tensioner guides for wear, and replace accordingly. If anything I'd expect the wear to be on the ones loaded by the tensioners, as they're working the hardest.
The general consensus is to change everything, as of course worn sprockets will quickly stretch a new chain.
The smaller ones will have done more work of course. If in doubt change them.
The oil pump chain is the one that likes to fail (due to doing more laps and being wound tighter) if you're on a budget i'd make them the priority.
Also check the tensioner guides for wear, and replace accordingly. If anything I'd expect the wear to be on the ones loaded by the tensioners, as they're working the hardest.
The point is i have ordered absolutely everything, except the sprockets. The guides and tensioner arms are badly scratched also the cam chain is stretched about 5 mm compared to the new one. The oil one seems well, but i am replacing it either way. I have unlimited budget, but i don't want to wait another week for delivery of the sprockets as the car is sitting in the garage for over 2 weeks . I don't find the sprockets bad but who knows is it that bad to reuse them. Also what is the torque of the bolt holding the oil chain sprocket.
. I don't find the sprockets bad but who knows is it that bad to reuse them. Also what is the torque of the bolt holding the oil chain sprocket.