2007 2.0L Tourer A/C condenser change

[anparkinson]

A/C not working as hole in condenser so changed it today.

Bumper off, radiator out (bottom hose a real pain to get off) then condenser out.
New condenser and filter/drier then refit radiator and bumper.
About 4 hours to do.

Mods I made:

- Jubilee clamp on bottom hose radiator end. Much easier to get off again if I need to.
- Fitted mesh grille to bottom bumper vents to stop future stone damage.

Now to get it gassed up.

 

[freddofrog]

condenser comes out without having to remove the radiator, at least that's what I did and also what the workshop manual says (latter shows how to get the condenser out without removing bumper, but it is easier to just remove the bumper)

 

[vile]

As Brian said on my 8th gen condenser can be changed without removing the rad so probably the same on 7th gen.
Also not trying to worry you but did you put the jubilee clip on the plastic lower rad connection.
If so with jubilee clips there is no movement for heat expansion on the rad and could crack the connection spout.
The OEM ones allow for this and will expand with heat expansion.

 

[anparkinson]

Yes, the jubilee clip was on the bottom plastic rad connection. I didn't do it up too tight so it should be OK. Plastic doesn't expand much when heated so I'll take a chance.

I would love to know how the condenser comes out without removing the rad. Believe me, I tried.

 

[vile]

Yes, the jubilee clip was on the bottom plastic rad connection. I didn't do it up too tight so it should be OK. Plastic doesn't expand much when heated so I'll take a chance.

I would love to know how the condenser comes out without removing the rad. Believe me, I tried.

Just keep an eye on the clip Andrew.
The CL7 might be a different set up to the CL9 then and mine.
All I no was when I had my rad changed at the dealers they didn't take out the condenser.
I'm sure it was just bolted to the same fixing housing and the rad just slid out.
But a good DIY and saved yourself a lot of money at the dealership

 

[freddofrog]

^ workshop manual shows the same procedure for CL7 and CL9 (the cars are basically the same, K24 just has longer stroke)

After you've removed the front bumper, there are two clips (one each side) at the top of the rad & condenser that secure them both in place. After removing those two clips and undoing the condenser piping, the condenser can be lifted upwards and away, leaving the rad behind.

But yeah, who cares anyway, good job, well done.

 

[-Rich-]

^ workshop manual shows the same procedure for CL7 and CL9 (the cars are basically the same, K24 just has longer stroke)

After you've removed the front bumper, there are two clips (one each side) at the top of the rad & condenser that secure them both in place. After removing those two clips and undoing the condenser piping, the condenser can be lifted upwards and away, leaving the rad behind.

But yeah, who cares anyway, good job, well done.

Yep that's what I did when I changed mine too.